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Barricade Wall
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"A Hole In The Wall" (where the men can see it all) T 
(a place in france where the) "Naked Ladies Dance" T 
(but they all don't care cause they have) "No Underwear" T,S 

(a place in france where the) "Naked Ladies Dance" 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 125'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Zac Warren, Roy Suggett, Pat Curry, and Jim Mathews
New Route: Yes
Season: Fall, spring, and summer
Page Views: 1,512
Submitted By: Roy Suggett on Apr 2, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Great fun!

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This long line on great rock goes as a lie-back or straight in, up almost vertical rock. There are a couple of rests but the crux is just not running out of steam! This is so much fun it is a shame it is so far off... or not.

Location 

As of 3/30/13 first route on the Barricade Wall (Left to Right).

Protection 

One #1, three #3s, four #4s, two #5s, and two #6s along with a set of Tricams. On second thought, bring all the #4s you can gather! This line sucks them up like no other! Something to clip the bolts at the top.


Photos of (a place in france where the) "Naked Ladies Dance" Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Rack used on the FA
BETA PHOTO: Rack used on the FA
Rock Climbing Photo: Roy finishing the second half of the route
Roy finishing the second half of the route
Rock Climbing Photo: What a fun lie back...for those that can!
BETA PHOTO: What a fun lie back...for those that can!
Rock Climbing Photo: After taking the first look at the 2nd half of the...
After taking the first look at the 2nd half of the...
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading the beautiful crack
Leading the beautiful crack

Comments on (a place in france where the) "Naked Ladies Dance" Add Comment
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By Patsy
Apr 3, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Super route, best of the three. Roy is a visionary, he spotted the wall. This route eats gear up. 5.9++. Two pluses on that nine.k

I would suggest jamming it and powering through the tough sections with a lieback, if you try to lieback the whole thing you're liable to flame out.
By Patsy
Apr 3, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Keep a sharp eye out for good pockets too.
By Roy Suggett
Apr 3, 2013

Pat hopes that everyone gets his 9+ joke but you will curse his very name before you get half way through this demanding line!
By BSU_Zac
Apr 4, 2013

Great route and a great find from roy....I'll say it again though; to hell with the lie back, the crack jams beautifully on deep fists and arm bars.
By Roy Suggett
Aug 5, 2014

Liebackers may drool but they do rule!

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