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A note to newbies
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Jun 21, 2011
So the guy is with a group of kids and a couple of teenage girls climbing up 20 feet solo. He down climbs (a 5.0) and says he won't go higher without his harness. He has no belayer, so I ask him what good his harness will do him? I have no gear with me as I am hiking with an old friend recovering from a bout with cancer. The newbie ignores me. He puts his harness on strings a short rope down the boulder, then slides the rope through his atc and starts climbing using the atc as a auto locker or soloist type set up. WTF? So I advise him to at least use a prusic loop. The newbie does not even know what that is! My buddy and I leave after telling him he's an accident waiting to happen. If he does not want to listen to me fine, but go get some lessons from someone. The newbie just gives me that blank "deer in the headlights" look and walks away with his group.

So, the point is: Newbies please learn some basics before going out even to top rope or boulder. Get some solid lessons first! Don't be a liability to others.
Orphaned
Joined Jul 9, 2007
13,505 points
Jun 21, 2011
not climbing
Did he have a bowl cut? Mark Roth
From Boulder
Joined Jan 4, 2008
12,684 points
Jun 21, 2011
and... what good is the harness doing in your picture? dorseyec
Joined May 31, 2009
16 points
Jun 21, 2011
black nasty
guide atc? Cor
Joined Mar 6, 2006
1,175 points
Jun 21, 2011
Stabby
Stop interfering with natural selection please, unless you want an Idiocracy-type future. Mike Lane
From Centennial, CO
Joined Jan 21, 2006
839 points
Jun 21, 2011
Hippos kill people
I hate newbies. So glad I never was one. germsauce
Joined Jun 14, 2010
66 points
Jun 21, 2011
RJN
Eric Dorsey wrote:
and... what good is the harness doing in your picture?


+1??
Ryan N
From Bellingham, WA
Joined May 21, 2009
183 points
Jun 21, 2011
Eric Dorsey wrote:
and... what good is the harness doing in your picture?

This might be the best burn ever to pop up on the proj. Strong work, Sir.

To the OP: the standard procedure in case of extreme n00biness is to casually inform all interested parties that "they're all gonna die" and move on. Spraying about prusiks - and failing at spelling the term properly when describing the incident - makes you the n00b. At best.
Boissal
From Small Lake, UT
Joined Aug 21, 2006
1,700 points
Jun 21, 2011
Boissal wrote:
This might be the best burn ever to pop up on the proj. Strong work, Sir. To the OP: the standard procedure in case of extreme n00biness is to casually inform all interested parties that "they're all gonna die" and move on. Spraying about prusiks - and failing at spelling the term properly when describing the incident - makes you the n00b. At best.



At best...LOL.

Just mind your own fucking business and stop trying to tell everyone else they are living their lives the wrong way. So they're gonna die. Big deal. Get over it.
Yarp
Joined Jan 16, 2011
6 points
Jun 22, 2011
Me and Spearhead
Mark Roth wrote:
Did he have a bowl cut?

Awesome reference... +1

But there's an idea, all noobs should have to wear bowl cuts until they've completed their entrance exam into the world of climbing. I'm thinking a list of routes compiled by the old crusty climbers here on MP that each noobie must lead.
Brent Apgar
From Out of the Loop
Joined Oct 20, 2007
141 points
Jun 22, 2011
Bellying on the Wedge.
i was planning on heading out to the crag without my chest harness but then i got you advice. thanks bill Ted Farley
From Bozeman, Mt
Joined Feb 19, 2010
17 points
Jun 22, 2011
Looking at a 5.7 crack with Nick
elena sera jose wrote:
climbing now is super main stream)


hahahaha....wait, you are serious?
Josh Olson
From madison, wisconsin
Joined Mar 7, 2010
362 points
Jun 22, 2011
I really enjoy unsolicited advice. It seems like there are more and more people out there dedicated to spreading age old climbing wisdom.

Bump for an awsome burn. I wear my harness while bouldering because it makes my junk look huge!
GR Johnson
Joined Jan 15, 2010
111 points
Jun 22, 2011
Loving it up in the Creek!
I just saw an American Death Triangle used in an anchor setup today...sigh.

At least they had a few brews while setting it up, owing to the beer cans scattered around their anchor (not that there's anything wrong with beer and climbing).
tooTALLtim
From Boulder, CO
Joined Apr 9, 2007
1,226 points
Jun 22, 2011
Mike Lane wrote:
Stop interfering with natural selection please, unless you want an Idiocracy-type future.


You cant fix stupid
Mike G
Joined Jan 20, 2011
0 points
Jun 22, 2011
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008
Mike Lane wrote:
Stop interfering with natural selection please, unless you want an Idiocracy-type future.



+1 You, me and Darwin all agree this is the best solution.
Woodchuck ATC
Joined Nov 29, 2007
3,091 points
Jun 22, 2011
Bill, bear with me here, but this is you?




and you are top roping your own V8+ (really?) boulder problem that you claim the first ascent of? And you are using a prusik to do this? Looks like you've got a whole little area there to yourself to practice prusik TR safety?

mountainproject.com/v/sawpit-b...

Sounds like some sick shit brah...

mountainproject.com/v/jaws/106...


Ok...thanks for the heads up on how to safely top rope boulder problems with a chest harness.
Yarp
Joined Jan 16, 2011
6 points
Jun 22, 2011
Wow. Just... Wow.
Solo/prussik/chest harness TR of a V8+. Shirtless at that.

I can only assume that despite the jugs in the picture and the beach landing it's a super thin 30' ultra highball problem with a crippler landing. Proud.
Boissal
From Small Lake, UT
Joined Aug 21, 2006
1,700 points
Jun 22, 2011
Bocan
Yarp wrote:
At best...LOL. Just mind your own fucking business and stop trying to tell everyone else they are living their lives the wrong way. So they're gonna die. Big deal. Get over it.



Dude gotta call you out....Didn't you just try to blow up two FS threads because you didn't like the pricing?

Quote..."You gotta be kidding me. This dude deserves to get flamed and others like him" (context - cam pricing)

Not trying to start a disagreement here but this is MYOB???
Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 15, 2006
927 points
Jun 22, 2011
Scott McMahon wrote:
Dude gotta call you out....


so you wanna meet in front of the saloon at high noon then? Or what?

Bill, seriously man, thanks for the laugh this morning!
Yarp
Joined Jan 16, 2011
6 points
Jun 22, 2011
Bocan
Yarp wrote:
so you wanna meet in front of the saloon at high noon then? Or what? Bill, seriously man, thanks for the laugh this morning!


Hahah...well I do have a happy hour app on my phone!!
Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 15, 2006
927 points
Jun 22, 2011
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
william miller wrote:
He puts his harness on strings a short rope down the boulder, then slides the rope through his atc and starts climbing using the atc as a auto locker or soloist type set up.


That coulda been me last weekend!

Accidently left a knot in the rope and didn't notice 'till the rope stuck at the anchor. Used my ATC as a sort of self belay, after climbing part way up and putting in a backup knot that may or may not have kept me off the ground, and, just pulled out the slack with one hand, and, climbed with the other. Voila.

Kids, don't try this at home.
Brian in SLC
Joined Oct 6, 2003
11,031 points
Jun 22, 2011
fun in the (twilight) sun
Too good to be true (entertaining though). Good to know the original postmaster general can still crank v8. Gregory D
From La Verne
Joined Mar 6, 2010
22 points
Jun 23, 2011
The Cathedral Spires in RMNP, left to right: Stile...
Best. Thread. Ever. Marc H
From Lafayette, CO
Joined May 10, 2007
280 points
Jun 23, 2011
Description
A great crag for beginners and novices. Area has good top roping, and single pitch routes up to 5.3. There are short sections in the 5.15 range.

mountainproject.com/v/bellevue...


..............I like this description for an area
P.K.
Joined Jun 25, 2010
2 points
Jun 23, 2011
Climbing at the Gallery in Red Rocks
Marc H wrote:
Best. Thread. Ever.


Seriously, I haven't had this much fun on MP in a long time, for those of you who haven't yet, you seriously need to check out all of the OP's "contributions" to this site!
kennoyce
From Layton, UT
Joined Aug 12, 2010
1,503 points


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