P1. Start in a very small, left-facing dihedral, then go up a nice finger crack (crux). After the finger crack, traverse to the left, then surmount a wild overhang with laybacks and high steps (good gear at the lip and the difficulty eases quickly so just go for it!). There are two bolts with chains are at the end of the first pitch.
P2. There is a 5.9 bolted second pitch, but you can also rap after the first with a 60m line.
P3. Per go up the crack directly above the double bolt anchor. 5.9 over initial roof, then easier to top (rappel 70', 98', 95' to ground). Rack to a #4 Friend; not as nice as the first two pitches.
This route is 30-40 feet left of Life After James.
Lots of small cams and stoppers. Nothing larger than a #1 [Camalot] is needed.
Kevin getting ready to send!
Dec 27, 2005
Better than it looks, for both quality of the climbing and quality of protection.
|By Bernard Gillett|
Dec 27, 2005
There's also a third pitch, up the crack directly above the double bolt anchor. 5.9 over initial roof, then easier to top (rappel 70', 98', 95' to ground). Rack to a #4 Friend; not as nice as the first two pitches. FA should also include Ken Younge and Chris Hill; we did it in 2003.
|By Dougald MacDonald|
Mar 24, 2008
Easy to TR by climbing the 5.10 Caesar's crack about 25 feet to the left to reach anchors at 95 feet. Excellent pitch!