|Up Among the Firs
Visit Up Among the Firs for this climb, stay for the other climbs. Start up a fairly easy corner, a few awkward moves in a flaring crack lead to a beautiful left facing corner crack.
The trail that takes you to Up Among the Firs pretty much exits in front of a feature called "The Pie" as there are cracks that section the face the way a pie would be cut into six pieces. The right side of this area is bounded by a big left facing corner which hosts this climb.
Medium nuts and cams will get you through the initial corner and flare. The upper crack takes hand sized gear, but note that it widens a bit inside, so choose your gear wisely: what enters the crack may tip out once it's inside. Don't let that comment worry you too much, the protection is excellent.
The lower section of A Little Testis - casual jamm...
The upper corner of A Little Testis
|By david goldstein|
Aug 12, 2007
I think this pitch is overhyped and overrated. I thought Wicker Cranium was a lot more value for the grade.
Sep 2, 2007
BETA ALERT >> I was told that the crux was the awkward bulge, and that the upper corner was easy. Handcrack in a corner sounded right up my alley - but, after cruising the lower bulge, I blew the onsight above, pumped out in the upper corner. It's easier than the bulge, but - not by that much, and it's steeper than it looks!
Loved the pitch.
|By Mark van Eijk|
Sep 2, 2011
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
In my opinion a stellar route with some impeccable crack and engaging features. The awkward bulge in the middle somewhat clashes with the style of the rest of the route and seems to require a different approach for every body type (smaller climbers seem to tend towards chimney/stem techniques whereas those with longer limbs can usually use a combination of heel/toe cams and reachy thrutching). Perfect hand and finger crack to the top may feel like the redpoint crux as the pump can build rapidly. Hard to compare to wicker cranium as they are quite different animals but absolutely excellent in its own right. Most run out the bottom crack as it is easy and the pro is needed up top.
|By Adrian Lazar|
Jul 18, 2013
Amazing climb, awesome hand jams, and good rests ... no need to get pumped. IMO the crux is the bulge.
|By Alex Charmoz|
From: Fairfield, CT
Jul 3, 2014
don't put a cam in the crux. such a sweet climb!