A Little Piece of South Dakota
BETA PHOTO: The crag.
|Upper Canyon access closed - 8p Mar. 22 - 5p Mar. 28 MORE INFO >>>|
This large-ish wall is just downstream from High Profile Wall and also faces West and North. The climbing is largely unremarkable, and this probably explains the rarity with which it is climbed (in 20 years of climbing in the area, I have never seen anyone on it!). However, it is home to a few moderate trad lines that tick in at 5.9 or so. These follow obvious grooves and crack systems. One face climb has been established at 5.9 as well, and it carries the LPSD moniker. I checked out LPSD in 2000 thinking it might be a good spot to develop more moderate face climbs, but the effort involved seemed too great. The rock here is granitic and fairly rough. We did a two pitch 5.8 called Reds that kicked up quite enjoyable climbing, although the bulk of the climbing seemed more like 5.6. If you are looking for an off beat day on nearly virgin stone, LPSD might be worth a visit.
Park as for the High Profile Wall but hike back down stream to the much larger wall. LPSD is best approached a bit uphill and from the right side.
A. North Dakota
, 7, 1p, 90', gear or TR.
B. A Little Piece of South Dakota, 9 R, bolts & gear.
C. Ethical Jesture
, 9 R, 1p, 120', gear.
D. Bugsy, 9, 1p, gear.
, 8, 1-2p, 125', gear.
F. Midwestern Crack
, 6, 1-2p, 110', gear.
Weather station 6.0 miles from here
4 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',1]
Featured Route For A Little Piece of South Dakota
Midwestern Crack 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b CO
: ... : A Little Piece of South Dak...
While this climb is not very difficult, the hardest part is going up the parallel cracks just below the tree. The protection is good here and the climbing is enjoyable. You can belay here, at the tree, if you wish to do the climb in two pitches. You start the climb in either of the two cracks which start near the bottom. I took the lower crack, but the upper crack looks enjoyable too. From the tree, the climb continues up rock that is easier to climb than the rock below. You belay from one of m...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
Local Information for A Little Piece of South Dakota
Latest Regional Forum Messages
By Jay Eggleston
Feb 16, 2015
It's too bad there is no Tyrol allowed by Jeffco. This crag is kind of fun and would be more popular if access was not so difficult.