A Little Piece of South Dakota Rock Climbing
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This large-ish wall is just downstream from High Profile Wall and also faces West and North. The climbing is largely unremarkable, and this probably explains the rarity with which it is climbed (in 20 years of climbing in the area, I have never seen anyone on it!). However, it is home to a few moderate trad lines that tick in at 5.9 or so. These follow obvious grooves and crack systems. One face climb has been established at 5.9 as well, and it carries the LPSD moniker. I checked out LPSD in 2000 thinking it might be a good spot to develop more moderate face climbs, but the effort involved seemed too great. The rock here is granitic and fairly rough. We did a two pitch 5.8 called Reds that kicked up quite enjoyable climbing, although the bulk of the climbing seemed more like 5.6. If you are looking for an off beat day on nearly virgin stone, LPSD might be worth a visit.
Park as for the High Profile Wall but hike back down stream to the much larger wall. LPSD is best approached a bit uphill and from the right side.
A. North Dakota
, 7, 1p, 90', gear or TR.
B. A Little Piece of South Dakota, 9 R, bolts & gear.
C. Ethical Jesture
, 9 R, 1p, 120', gear.
D. Bugsy, 9, 1p, gear.
, 8, 1-2p, 125', gear.
F. Midwestern Crack
, 6, 1-2p, 110', gear.
Climbing Season For the Clear Creek Canyon area.
Weather station 6.0 miles from here
4 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',1]
Featured Route For A Little Piece of South Dakota
Midwestern Crack 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b CO
: ... : A Little Piece of South Dak...
While this climb is not very difficult, the hardest part is going up the parallel cracks just below the tree. The protection is good here and the climbing is enjoyable. You can belay here, at the tree, if you wish to do the climb in two pitches. You start the climb in either of the two cracks which start near the bottom. I took the lower crack, but the upper crack looks enjoyable too. From the tree, the climb continues up rock that is easier to climb than the rock below. You belay from one of m...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
By Jay Eggleston
Feb 16, 2015
It's too bad there is no Tyrol allowed by Jeffco. This crag is kind of fun and would be more popular if access was not so difficult.
By David Tennant
From: Denver, CO
Jul 28, 2015
Good to know, Jay, I was curious why I haven't seen many. Do you have any recommendations about the best time to find a way across the creek or better yet if there's good enough options to get across in less than ideal conditions? This rock looks really cool.
By Jay Eggleston
Jul 28, 2015
I would just go in the late fall or on a warm winter day. I waded the creek right below the crag,