A Hike With Ludwig Dude 5.10a PG13
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | Bob Poling, Dick Donofrio, 1970 |
| Submitted By: | Friso Schlottau on Jan 1, 2001 |
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Bob D at the bolt on A Hike With Ludwig Dude. Bob...
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Seasonal Raptor Closure In Effect MORE INFO >>>
The seasonal raptor closure is in effect February 1, 2013 through July 31, 2013 at Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates.
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and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Description There are a lot of routes on this beautiful slab which sort of run into each other. This one starts a few feet to the right of the right tree.... Thin face moves, head around the left of the bolt on the face to stay on the route. Lots of fun smearing and such.
Protection Pretty much nonexistent. There is a new bolt (which replaces the POS that used to be there), but it is about halfway up the route. TR is highly recommended. Easiest way to set this is to hike to the obvious gully, rap down to the two bolts that are ~25m above the ground. Then re-set your rope.
Addendum: you can get a medium wire & RP ~15-18 feet up below the white dike if you start from the right, but there is a crux move near the ground without pro.
BETA PHOTO
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Dave Rogers on the direct start which is quite thi...
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| Comments on A Hike With Ludwig Dude |
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By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 1, 2001
| I was able to get a TCU or something in, maybe 25 feet below the bolt. I say PG. |
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 27, 2002
rating: 5.10a PG13
| Pro is not non-existent. You can place several locker small nuts that should hold a long sliding fall along the way. The only really scary runout on the cliff is the one on the 5.10 to the right ("Crack Tack"). The rest have enough pro to keep them "s" instead of VS. You'd get cheese-grated, but a fall from these should not be career-ending. |
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 24, 2004
| If you start left of the tree, you can get a blue (smallest) Ballnut in the pin scar in the small overlap. This Ballnut looks good and survived a bounce test. Above this is very good gear, as Tony says. But, we led this by climbing a ways up the 5.6 variation a couple feet further left, placing gear, and then having a diagonal top rope for the crux moves. If you start from right of the tree, not only is there no gear, as stated by Friso above, but it looks a lot harder, and it's a lot further to the bolt, since the ground slants down and right. |
By Ken Heiser
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 25, 2004
rating: 5.10a
| I agree with Tony that this route is adequately protected as the runout is protected by a super bomber piece. I also used the #1 Ballnut in the overlap to protect the crux off the ground the placement looks really good, and I think it would hold a fall. Really fun slab route. |
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