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A great way to clip to the anchors
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By Tradoholic
Mar 2, 2012

I was going to post this to the various threads regarding the PAS but, ya know...

This is one loop of cord girth hitched to my harness and another "adjustable prusik". The adjustable is my master point and the other the back up. In addition I can remove these from the harness and ascend fixed rope. I ditched the dasiy and all that other crap after figuring this out. Probably 20ft of cord needed.

Adjustable Prusik
Adjustable Prusik


Tying in with the rope is nice and simple but sometimes gets in the way of rope management. Plus you will need something else for the rap anyway.


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By cms829
Mar 2, 2012
high e

I use a purcell most of the time, so I'm with ya on that. But why another piece of cord? Im curious, not busting you. If its a strength thing though, I think its way overkill.

EDIT: 7mm sterling cord is rated to 2,788 lbs which is 12.4 KN. Metolius pas is 18KN.

If you are belaying off of your belay loop, and the force of a fall is going to be transferred to that prucell, then yes, back it up. But its much easier to belay off the power point of your anchor in autoblock mode, and let the anchor take the weight. And just use the purcell for yourself, in which case...even 1500 lbs would be sufficient. Im just starting conversation, like I said im not busting you or your method. I dont F with ninja's


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By Tradoholic
Mar 2, 2012

cms829 wrote:
I use a purcell most of the time, so I'm with ya on that. But why another piece of cord? Im curious, not busting you. If its a strength thing though, I think its way overkill. EDIT: 7mm sterling cord is rated to 2,788 lbs which is 12.4 KN. Metolius pas is 18KN. If you are belaying off of your belay loop, and the force of a fall is going to be transferred to that prucell, then yes, back it up. But its much easier to belay off the power point of your anchor in autoblock mode, and let the anchor take the weight. And just use the purcell for yourself, in which case...even 1500 lbs would be sufficient. Im just starting conversation, like I said im not busting you or your method. I dont F with ninja's


Right, the other cord is really just for ascending if need be but an additional advantage is that if I want to shift clip in points I can stay clipped in with one and move the other around, thus staying clipped in at all times. Can't do that if simply clove-hitching with the rope.


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By cms829
Mar 2, 2012
high e

Gotcha. I guess it would be the same using two purcells. Different strokes for different folks. Ive never really ever thought to myself, "self, I think we should move a few feet over". So I guess Ive never felt the need to move any more then my one purcell would let me. But I guess the situation could come up in an emergency possibly. Or if someone is having trouble managing the rope from a certain position, or whatever. I dunno. Do your thing!


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By dorseyec
Mar 2, 2012

Please god no more PAS threads...

And no, if I am doing multipitch I will obviously just use the rope. If I am cleaning a single pitch route why would I want 20 feet of cord hanging off my harness in that cluster fuck? PAS seems much easier in that application and less clutter.


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By caughtinside
From Oakland CA
Mar 2, 2012

Wow. Another, different mousetrap.

Justified by 'I can do x, y and z with it.' Well, you can do xyz with stuff that's already on your rack.

I'd just say this. It's always easier to take more stuff up with you. a pack, more water, shoes, wag bag, whatever. But I think most climbers will find the less junk you take the more enjoyable the climbing is.

Sorry man, there's nothing ninja about your setup. Well, maybe Beverly Hills Ninja. I see stuff like that and I just think of the Dudes in the Valley Ready to Crush. www.mountainproject.com/v/105980455


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By Tradoholic
Mar 2, 2012

Not bulky at all, tuck it under and you will barely notice it. If it is bulky for you I think it's worth the versatility. Pretty awesome pic BTW.

Dorsey, try ascending a fixed rope with the PAS or micro-adjust your position and let me know how it goes. This set up costs less and has more uses, what's to hate?


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By MegaGaper2000
From Indianola, Wa
Mar 2, 2012
the dragon's tail, or dragon's tooth, or whatever. And me.

caughtinside wrote:
It's always easier to take more stuff up with you. a pack, more water, shoes, wag bag, whatever. But I think most climbers will find the less junk you take the more enjoyable the climbing is. Sorry man, there's nothing ninja about your setup. Well, maybe Beverly Hills Ninja. I see stuff like that and I just think of the Dudes in the Valley Ready to Crush. www.mountainproject.com/v/105980455



You started off with a good point, but finished by making fun of somebody(somebodies). Which is too bad.


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By dorseyec
Mar 2, 2012

Trad Ninja wrote:
Not bulky at all, tuck it under and you will barely notice it. If it is bulky for you I think it's worth the versatility. Pretty awesome pic BTW. Dorsey, try ascending a fixed rope with the PAS or micro-adjust your position and let me know how it goes. This set up costs less and has more uses, what's to hate?


Haha TardNinja 20 feet of cord tied into you is not bulky?? Whatever... To me that's just extra crap to bring, I guess when you are toproping 20 foot boulders at Devils Lake its not a big issue.

Like I said I only use the the PAS for single pitch cleaning, why would I EVER need to ascend a rope with it in that scenario? And "micro" adjusting my position, just what is that? Never had the need for that either. The PAS offers an adjustment every 2 inches, I am going to rue the day I need to micro adjust my position by .75 inches!!!


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By dorseyec
Mar 2, 2012

This post violated Rule #1. It has been removed by Mountain Project.


By Tradoholic
Mar 2, 2012

dorseyec wrote:
Haha TardNinja 20 feet of cord tied into you is not bulky?? Whatever... To me that's just extra crap to bring, I guess when you are toproping 20 foot boulders at Devils Lake its not a big issue. Like I said I only use the the PAS for single pitch cleaning, why would I EVER need to ascend a rope with it in that scenario? And "micro" adjusting my position, just what is that? Never had the need for that either. The PAS offers an adjustment every 2 inches, I am going to rue the day I need to micro adjust my position by .75 inches!!!


No, it's not bulky, it's not tied in a bundle as you can plainly see. So, what do you use in a multi-pitch situation?

You never know when you will have to ascend a rope. As for the micro adjust, well sometimes it might be more comfortable to move and inch in or out from the wall. With your coveted PAS you would have to unclip to adjust, with this you don't. Not a big deal but a definite improvement.

As for staying clipped in, no you can't do it the same with the rope. As I think you're picturing this, you clove hitch into the anchor (which is of course adjustable but not as smoothly as my system) and then clove hitch in a few inches later to another part of the anchor? I've done this but while partners shift position or moving the rope there's still a tendency to get snagged up.

With what I use you can separate yourself from the rope to shift positions or pass the rope to your partner without stepping over or tangling the rope up.

Look Dorsey, we get it, you don't like it, that's fine, I'm not putting a gun to your head and forcing you to use it. It's just another alternative for those people who don't see it your way. If you don't like these threads DON'T READ THEM! No one is forcing you to do that either.


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By Tradoholic
Mar 2, 2012

cms829 wrote:
Gotcha. I guess it would be the same using two purcells. Different strokes for different folks. Ive never really ever thought to myself, "self, I think we should move a few feet over". So I guess Ive never felt the need to move any more then my one purcell would let me. But I guess the situation could come up in an emergency possibly. Or if someone is having trouble managing the rope from a certain position, or whatever. I dunno. Do your thing!


Only one purcell, the other one is just a loop of cord. Not two purcells because for ascending the loop goes on top and the purcell for the feet, a second purcell would be too long and the prussik on the rope to be ascended would be too far above your head.

Here's a good vid for tying a purcell.


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By JCM
From Henderson, NV
Mar 2, 2012

This post violated Rule #1. It has been removed by Mountain Project.


By fat cow
From Salinas, CA
Mar 3, 2012
perfect seam

they prob just dont like jon, they discriminate like that against those who hurt their fragile feelings at one time or another. pretty awesome actually but it's their site so whateves


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By Johny Q
Mar 3, 2012
My profile

This post violated Rule #1. It has been removed by Mountain Project.


By Yarp
Mar 3, 2012

This post violated Rule #1. It has been removed by Mountain Project.


By Tradoholic
Mar 3, 2012

For the record I never flag anything.


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By John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Mar 3, 2012

fwiw, in 10 years of multipitch trad climbing, i have needed to ascend a line exactly twice. once to retrieve a stuck rap line (scary), and once due to leader error (scary). i keep a single prusik on my harness (along with my grigri) in the ridiculously rare event that i may need to once again ascend a line.

you can literally accomplish the same thing with a single tiny prusik and either a grigri or one of the multitude of guide devices in guide mode. i honestly dont see the advantage...

but hey, whatever works for ya.


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By Colonel Mustard
From Reno, NV
Mar 3, 2012
Colonel Mustard

This post violated Rule #1. It has been removed by Mountain Project.


By fat cow
From Salinas, CA
Mar 3, 2012
perfect seam

This post violated Rule #1. It has been removed by Mountain Project.


By Eric Krantz
From Black Hills
Mar 3, 2012
smoke break, pitch 5 or 6 (or 7??) of Dark Shadows

Nothing like a good public flagging to set you straight. Bet you won't do THAT again!

Flagging
Flagging


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By David Sahalie
From on the road again
Mar 4, 2012

This post violated Rule #1. It has been removed by Mountain Project.


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By fat cow
From Salinas, CA
Mar 4, 2012
perfect seam

I'm poor as fuck lady


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By shoo
Mar 4, 2012
Rock wars, Red River Gorge

Dear god what happened here?


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By Buff Johnson
Mar 4, 2012
smiley face

Yer Gonna Die Anchor Clip!!:

Sport Boy <br /> <br />(Photo by Peacock)
Sport Boy

(Photo by Peacock)


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By Buff Johnson
Mar 4, 2012
smiley face

not even close, super star


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