Are you looking for a big steep .12a? Well now Cascade's got one! Thuggy and juggy is the name of the game on this route.
Start on a beautiful blue face of "harder-than-it-looks climbing" past the first bolt to a good stance under the second. from here the route gets steep and powerful as you climb through big undercling and layback features. Get a good rest on a big, left-facing fin (knee-bars anyone?) just past the 4th bolt. From there, work your way far left under a big roof to gain a good hold at the lip, make a few more strenuous moves, and you're home free on the juggy, exposed headwall. Clip the anchors and lower out 20 feet from the wall!
The top half is still a tad dirty, but with some more traffic, I think it will clean up to be a 3 star line.
Start in a big, blue, right-facing corner 20 feet left of Huffy.
The first half of the route climbs a very obvious, wide crack feature (don't worry, no hand jamming or any other awful crack technique is required!). From the fourth bolt, the route zags left under the big roof.
6 bolts plus anchors. Long slings on bolts 2, 3, and 5 will drastically reduce rope drag as the line wanders a lot.
A stick clip for the first bolt is highly recommended.
BETA PHOTO: Drew nearing the no hands rest before the steep st...
Ben ripping choss just before the FA.
BETA PHOTO: Horizontal knee-baring on A Gentlehoe!
Last hard move.
|By Erik Durgin|
Oct 2, 2012
Just for clarification: from the rest just past the fourth bolt, there is another line that moves right under the roof to link up with the midway crux of Huffy. I'm calling it Buffy, and it goes at about .13b. Very fun as well and the original line that I bolted.
|By Ben Griffin|
From: Durango, CO
Oct 3, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
This route was a Gentle Ben and Drew Hoch disaster bolting project. Eric Durgin came in and cleaned it up. This route deserves the name A Gentlehoe.