Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Roof Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Gentlehoe S 
Back in the Day S 
Black Streak TR 
Buffy S 
El Jefe S 
El Rancho  S 
Handcrack Corner T 
Huffy S 
La Cantina S 
Peer Pressure S 
Sweatpants in Public  S 

A Gentlehoe 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Ben Griffen, Drew Hoch, Erik Durgin
New Route: Yes
Season: Late summer/fall
Page Views: 638
Submitted By: Erik Durgin on Oct 2, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Rowan not being so gentle, on A Gentlehoe.

Description 

Are you looking for a big steep .12a? Well now Cascade's got one! Thuggy and juggy is the name of the game on this route.

Start on a beautiful blue face of "harder-than-it-looks climbing" past the first bolt to a good stance under the second. from here the route gets steep and powerful as you climb through big undercling and layback features. Get a good rest on a big, left-facing fin (knee-bars anyone?) just past the 4th bolt. From there, work your way far left under a big roof to gain a good hold at the lip, make a few more strenuous moves, and you're home free on the juggy, exposed headwall. Clip the anchors and lower out 20 feet from the wall!

The top half is still a tad dirty, but with some more traffic, I think it will clean up to be a 3 star line.

Location 

Start in a big, blue, right-facing corner 20 feet left of Huffy.

The first half of the route climbs a very obvious, wide crack feature (don't worry, no hand jamming or any other awful crack technique is required!). From the fourth bolt, the route zags left under the big roof.

Protection 

6 bolts plus anchors. Long slings on bolts 2, 3, and 5 will drastically reduce rope drag as the line wanders a lot.

A stick clip for the first bolt is highly recommended.


Photos of A Gentlehoe Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Last hard move.
Last hard move.
Rock Climbing Photo: Copping a quick rest before the last hard move.
Copping a quick rest before the last hard move.
Rock Climbing Photo: Horizontal knee-baring on A Gentlehoe!
BETA PHOTO: Horizontal knee-baring on A Gentlehoe!
Rock Climbing Photo: Drew nearing the no hands rest before the steep st...
BETA PHOTO: Drew nearing the no hands rest before the steep st...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ben ripping choss just before the FA.
Ben ripping choss just before the FA.

Comments on A Gentlehoe Add Comment
Show which comments
By Erik Durgin
Oct 2, 2012

Just for clarification: from the rest just past the fourth bolt, there is another line that moves right under the roof to link up with the midway crux of Huffy. I'm calling it Buffy, and it goes at about .13b. Very fun as well and the original line that I bolted.
By Ben Griffin
From: Durango, CO
Oct 3, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This route was a Gentle Ben and Drew Hoch disaster bolting project. Eric Durgin came in and cleaned it up. This route deserves the name A Gentlehoe.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!