A Gentlehoe  5.12a

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet Consensus:  5.12a [details] FA:  Ben Griffen, Drew Hoch, Erik Durgin New Route:  Yes Season:  Late summer/fall Submitted By:  Erik Durgin on Oct 2, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Ben ripping choss just before the FA.

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Description 

Are you looking for a big steep .12a? Well now Cascade's got one! Thuggy and juggy is the name of the game on this route.

Start on a beautiful blue face of "harder-than-it-looks climbing" past the first bolt to a good stance under the second. from here the route gets steep and powerful as you climb through big undercling and layback features. Get a good rest on a big, left-facing fin (knee-bars anyone?) just past the 4th bolt. From there, work your way far left under a big roof to gain a good hold at the lip, make a few more strenuous moves, and you're home free on the juggy, exposed headwall. Clip the anchors and lower out 20 feet from the wall!

The top half is still a tad dirty, but with some more traffic, I think it will clean up to be a 3 star line.

Location 

Start in a big, blue, right-facing corner 20 feet left of Huffy.

The first half of the route climbs a very obvious, wide crack feature (don't worry, no hand jamming or any other awful crack technique is required!). From the fourth bolt, the route zags left under the big roof.

Protection 

6 bolts plus anchors. Long slings on bolts 2, 3, and 5 will drastically reduce rope drag as the line wanders a lot.

A stick clip for the first bolt is highly recommended.

Photos of A Gentlehoe Slideshow

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BETA PHOTO: Drew nearing the no hands rest before the steep st...	BETA PHOTO: Horizontal knee-baring on A Gentlehoe!	Copping a quick rest before the last hard move.
Last hard move.