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The Citadel
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A Full Dazed Work (not Coronas and Lime) S 
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A Full Dazed Work (not Coronas and Lime) 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 689
Submitted By: Cale Farnham on Sep 27, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Description 

This is a well-protected route with thin and pumpy moves! I would say the crux could be 12a 4-5 bolts up! It has some good moves that require good liebacks up into a solid finish!


Location 

This is on The Palace (Citadel Rock).


Protection 

12 bolts to the anchor.



Comments on A Full Dazed Work (not Coronas and Lime) Add Comment
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By Scott Matz
From: Loveland, CO
Sep 29, 2008

Great climb, I followed Cale on this one, all I could say the whole time was "take". This climb is #3 on the topo sport map of The Palace.

By Cale Farnham
Sep 29, 2008

Stellar route and super pumpy! Good pro and one of my favorites in the area! Superb view of the Crystal Wall and all other routes in the area, must do at The Palace!

By Jason Funk
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 22, 2009

The crux felt bouldery and right on at 11c/d. The hold just under the crux clipping bolt added some excitement- the crunching noises that it gives off sound worse than it is though I wouldn't be suprised if it blows off in someones face while they are going for it so be aware. The top section has some fun moves but needs to see more traffic, otherwise I would give this climb three stars.

By Vance White
Dec 4, 2012

I believe this is the route Casey and I bolted back in the early '90s (1993 I believe), and we called "Coronas and Lime". Craig mistakenly FA'd, because we did not know to Red Tag at the time. At the time, the Palace name did not exist and only a few routes were down on the wall with the mine shaft. Rob Poutre and Ron Ambrose were putting in lines in the canyon as well as other locals.

By derek peavey
Dec 4, 2012

Coronas and Lime is the Citadel route. They got it wrong in the book. I helped put up this line. There were no bolts on it when we put it up, and it had definitely never been climbed or been cleaned.