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Routes in Creekside Wall
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A-Frame Roof T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bolt Route, The TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Downclimb Route T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Left Arete T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
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Lower Bolted Face S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lower Roof Route T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Old Aid T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Roof Route T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unknown at Creekside T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 30 ft (9 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,941 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Julian Smith on Nov 1, 2008 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Road closure and reopened after flood damage!
Details
Per Steven Armijo: Cheyenne Canyon Road is closed until May 2022 for bridge repairs. Only hiking and biking trail access is allowed into the canyon.
Per Stewart M. Green: the North Cheyenne Canyon was reopened after the floods of 2015.
Per Stewart M. Green: ATTENTION!! The Colorado Springs Parks Department has CLOSED ALL CITY PARKS, including Garden of the Gods, Red Rock Canyon Open Space, and North Cheyenne Canon, to rock climbing for the upcoming Memorial Day weekend.
This is due to record rainfall totals in western Colorado Springs which as caused severe trail and parking lot damage, saturated the sandstone cliffs, and is causing parts of cliffs to break off.
The parks will be re-evaluated on Monday to determine how the closure will last.
Please respect the closures and take care of our precious climbing areas!
Per Stewart M. Green: the North Cheyenne Canyon was reopened after the floods of 2015.
Per Stewart M. Green: ATTENTION!! The Colorado Springs Parks Department has CLOSED ALL CITY PARKS, including Garden of the Gods, Red Rock Canyon Open Space, and North Cheyenne Canon, to rock climbing for the upcoming Memorial Day weekend.
This is due to record rainfall totals in western Colorado Springs which as caused severe trail and parking lot damage, saturated the sandstone cliffs, and is causing parts of cliffs to break off.
The parks will be re-evaluated on Monday to determine how the closure will last.
Please respect the closures and take care of our precious climbing areas!
Description
The A-Frame Roof is a great route, but a ridiculous sandbag to me saying that it is only 5.10b. I suppose that because it is a roof, height and body build could be a factor in how hard this one feels; for me being a taller person, the route feels much harder. So, take that for what its worth, just another opinion. However, it is a legitimate climb and one that is definitely worth aspiring to lead. No doubt the gear is a little thin and hard to get, but it is all there. Let me give you a little beta. Climb up to just beneath the roof and try to get in something like a number two Camalot on a long sling. Make sure the carabiner comes out past the edge of the roof to avoid rope drag. Next I get in a red Metolius (number 4 I think) TCU or FCU in the lip of the roof, but it is pretty rotten here. Reaching a little higher, a person can get in a fairly good purple Metolius (number 0) or a blue Alien. I always down climb from this point and bounce test my gear. Yes, I used to be an aid climber.... You do know how to bounce test your gear dont you? Once you think the gear is safe, climb up past the lip of the roof and get in a wide stem. Look for a crescent-shaped hold on the right side of the face. Some good holds for the left hand can be found if you take your time to look and are creative. Get well established here, and the comfort factor is not so bad. Get your right foot a little higher in the stem, and make a high reach to a good finger crack for the left hand. A good yellow BD stopper (number 8 I think) fits in where the crack constricts for your fingers. Fire for the top, mainly trending to the left. This one is short, but sweet, and definitely gets your attention. There is a great tree at the top for setting up a top rope for those who are a little saner, or are practicing for a redpoint. Congratulations to you if you manage to on-sight this one; you deserve it. Cheers.
Location
Look for the obvious roof splitting the middle of Creekside wall, just to the right of Old Aid, and just left of the Downclimb Route.
Photos
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2 Comments