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 ADVANCED
The Bihedral (Upper Tier)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Fly in the Ointment T,S 
Acid Crack T 
Acid Rock T 
AHR S 
Bihedral T 
Bihedral Arete T,S 
Blood Diamond S 
Case of the Fags T 
Crack Variation T 
Dan's Line S 
Daydreaming T 
Diamonds and Rust S 
Dihedral Variation T,S 
Edge of Reality S 
Fat Tuesday T,S 
Flags of Our Fathers T,S 
Flesh Eating Flies S 
Group Therapy S 
Heterohedral T 
High Hard One S 
Hold The Line S 
It's Time For Change T,S 
Just Putin Around T 
Left-Handed Tool T,S 
Loose Blocks [in the Black Band] S 
Night Moves T,S 
Oh Boy T,S 
Pariah S 
Puff Daddy S 
Rhodian Shores S 
Rhodian, Naturally T,TR 
Sands of Iwo Jima S 
Sun Spot T,S 
Thumb Tack T 
Tool King T,S 
Trick or Treat T,S 
Where's Ray? S 

A Fly in the Ointment 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio & Greg Hand, 1/12/2008
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,135
Submitted By: Greg Hand on Jan 12, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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3rd bolt of Fly in the Ointment, strenuous for the...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Layback past 3 bolts (crux) to a big bucket. Place a small cam to protect a move to a big ledge. Follow the final crack of Tool King to anchors.

The name was inspired by a recent trip to Australia. I got very good at the Australian Salute, not to mention spitting them out.

Location 

Begin just right of Tool King.

Protection 

3 bolts plus finger size to 1 1/4" cams.


Photos of A Fly in the Ointment Slideshow Add Photo
Near the anchor of route. The upper crack takes great small-med. gear, go get it!
Near the anchor of route. The upper crack takes gr...

Comments on A Fly in the Ointment Add Comment
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By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 19, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

A pumpy and committing route. We toproped the line after leading Tool King. The moves past the three bolts are strenuous liebacking and it looked difficult to let go to make the third clip. If you're not a solid 5.10 leader, better to toprope this line.
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Feb 3, 2009
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I led this today, the second clip was the most difficult to make. After that it was pretty juggy, but I didn't bring enough finger-sized cams so I ended up running it out a bit. Kind of dirty and there is some bird crap but a route worth trying if you're in the area.
By Climberordinaire
From: Boulder, CO
May 26, 2009
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Winter has not been kind to this climb. The layback flake between the 1st and 2nd bolt is now mostly gone, pulled off yesterday afternoon (5/25/09). There are still edges and some flake to lay off of but now a mid to hard 10.
By rob bauer
From: Golden, CO
Oct 2, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Climbed this today, so no prior experience with the liebacks, and I'm no powerhouse at 52. I believe more pieces will break off, but don't think it will change the grade much at 10a. Didn't see the need for any larger than a .75 camalot. Nice climb!
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 16, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

My partner broke bt bottom hold, then cleaned it up- more broke away while standing on it. I cleaned it more, then more shed while standing on it. More bound to come with time- watch the feet while clipping bolt #2. The rest of the route is more solid.
By Sarah Meiser
From: Boulder, Colorado
Mar 28, 2011

Entire route seems solid now, looks like everything that could break off did already. Fun, pumpy climb.
By Eric Klammer
From: Boulder, CO
May 3, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Fun, pumpy climb that offers quite the variety of climbing styles. Clips weren't bad, do this climb!