Go to the huge block marking the start of the Start of Something Good. Walk about 20 feet to the right along the wall to the next bolt line, underneath an overhanging bulge. This route has a one-sequence crux that is a little tricky due to being so far underneath the holds and an inability to tell which ones are good and which are crap. Once you pull the crux and are up on the bulge, there is a traverse left that while pretty easy, is a bit scary as if you blow it you're going for a ride/swing. Then it's straight up to the anchors on good holds and fun moves. Given 11c in the guidebook but probably doesn't warrant that based simply on the crux.
Bolts. Please use your own gear for top rope. Please bring an extra biner and if the ones up top look bad or don't easily clip or shut, please replace it. It's good karma.
the route follows the slanting ramp.
|Comments on A Drilling Experience
|By Adam Therneau|
Nov 15, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c
Fun route. Very short crux and easy to read, so I think it warrants 11a at most.
|By Jonathan Williams|
From: Palo Alto, CA
Mar 5, 2007
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
A classic starter Red Wing 11. Short, but good holds and fun.