This is the contrived-looking route to the immediate left of Y-Crack. Thin moves lead past three bolts to one bolt with a quick link (the anchor).
I thought little of the route (it doesn't even go to the top of the wall) until I got on it. I found a very difficult move passing the second bolt followed by some long moves, almost lunges, linking crimps.
The rock is perfect and the moves are engaging. By the time I reached the anchor, I was happy that it was only three bolts long. Take that for what you will...
Three bolts to a one bolt anchor.
|By JJ Schlick|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 12, 2006
This thing has Schmidt written all over it. The reason it was originally chopped was because people were leading Old and In The Way and clipping the bolts on Dish. To some, that is just tooo much...I noticed the new bolts are a tad bit further away. Still, it does kind of mar the beauty of the natural lines right next door. Sometimes an extra route just isn't worth it. A saving grace might be to try and link this thing into Death of a Salesman. That would be some enduro crimping.
Aug 21, 2008
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b
I was looking at the link-up possibility this past weekend...the wall is super-blank past the anchors...just 1 hold & maybe, but I don't see a link-up happening.