Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
A Community of Yosemite Monkeys! (helping a paraplegic climber)
Follow topic:
Original Post
 A few weeks ago I returned from Yosemite Valley where I was working on a film about my friend Enock who is paralyzed from the waist down and trying to climb El Capitan. Enock was born with a birth defect called Spina Bifida and uses adaptive techniques to climb without the use of his legs. For the past few years, Enock has participated in the Paradox Sports adaptive climbing program, and with the help of Sean O’Neill, fellow sit-climber, and other Paradox Sports volunteers, guides, and participants; Enock has been training to climb El Cap. A few weeks ago, he returned home from Yosemite. Enock considered the trip a success, but it was not without significant setbacks. This project relied on the help of a lot of generous people (you know who you are) who went out of their way to help Enock accomplish something very special. As with any daunting but worthy objective, adversity is unavoidable. After all, these types of trips are born from passion and from passion arises emotions that can lead to tension – it’s unavoidable. However, if handled correctly, a team ultimately resolves these issues because the objective and the people are worthy. And on this project, we did exactly that. Everything worked out for the best, and I speculate the adversity made Enock’s experience even sweeter.  Last winter, Enock’s training was delayed after suffering frostbite to one of his feet that resulted in an infection. It was so severe that some of the doctors involved were encouraging amputation. I was in touch with Enock during that time, and it appeared Enock’s plan to visit Yosemite was unlikely. Fortunately, after undergoing a strong month-long antibiotic treatment, Enock’s leg was spared and he resumed training after some lengthy healing.   Enock spent much of his free-time working on his climbing systems at Sean O’Neill’s house. Sean is paralyzed below the waist and has extensive sit-climbing experience under the guidance of his brother Timmy O’Neill. Sean’s accomplishments include a few ascents of El Cap, the first paraplegic ice ascent of Colorado’s Bridal Veil falls, and an ascent of Devils tower just to name a few. Sean has also contributed extensively to sit-climbing innovation. In collaboration with other climbers, he developed sit-climb aiding techniques utilizing mechanical advantage daisy chains. In 2013 Sean used this technique to complete the first paraplegic lead-climb.  A few days a week, Enock traveled to Sean’s house to practice rope ascension on fixed lines hanging from trees on Sean’s property. After ascending the fixed line, Sean, tending the ground anchor from his wheelchair, would lower Enock back to the ground. They would repeat this process over and over again, Sean offering Enock suggestions, and Enock testing his advice on the following lap. With Sean’s connections to the adaptive climbing community, Enock was able to assemble a climbing team prior to arriving in the Yosemite. Everything seemed to be lining up perfectly, almost too good to be true.  In early September, Enock arrived in the Valley with the goal of climbing Zodiac, a steep route on the right side of El Cap. His tentative climbing team drew from a variety of folks deeply committed to his mission. Enock would spend the next couple of weeks participating in a Paradox climbing event and training for Zodiac. He and the team would hold off on the climb until I arrived two weeks later. Unfortunately, prior to my arrival, Enock encountered a series of setbacks. During the Paradox climbing event, which took place at the base of the Nose, his adaptive climbing-systems were not working efficiently. Everybody noticed, and for the team, Enock’s performance was disconcerting. It felt as though the energy that had been keeping this project going began to loose steam as Enock’s preparedness and commitment were in question. Climbing a big wall is a substantial undertaking even with able-bodied climbers. Bringing a sit-climber up a wall is downright daunting. Assisting an unprepared adaptive climber on a wall might be considered cavalier. This definitive moment changed the tone of Enock’s trip and his support network waned. He felt alone, without direction, and his chances of climbing a wall appeared to be diminishing. By the time I arrived in the Valley, Enock wad dispirited. This was the first time I traveled to Yosemite without having access to a car. I flew into Fresno and took the YARTS bus to the Valley. I arrived with limited climbing gear, just my personal kit and camera equipment. Most of the climbing logistics, including gear, was to be being taken care of by the rest of the team who were local and able to accept that responsibility. My plan was to show up, plug in, and join the climb. While my priority was to film, I would also be assisting Enock on the climb and sharing the lead-climbing if necessary. In light of Enock’s shortcomings with his ascension technique, the team adapted and switched the climb from Zodiac to something smaller, the Prow on Washington Column - The idea being that the Prow would serve as a training trip for a bigger climb on El Cap the following year. Soon there after, there was discussion of downgrading once again to even a smaller multi-pitch climb, one with a shorter approach and less commitment for everybody involved. Enock was frustrated, even a little aggravated as the current objective didn’t reflect his expectations. He was still motivated to climb a wall, but he was at the mercy of everybody else. I understood the logic behind downsizing the objective. However, I empathized with Enock. He had worked so hard to make it to Yosemite. He overcame significant setbacks including almost loosing a leg. After healing, training, and traveling across the country to Yosemite, his chances of climbing something big were vanishing due to some hiccups in his sit-climbing setup - something he felt he could fix. Enock believed that he had enough time to improve his systems, but simply needed somebody to train with him. He also felt that with the right team, he could climb an appropriate wall. I concurred and continued helping Enock train and put together a team psyched to bring him up something substantial.  We spent our days training at the Laconte Boulder, riding the bus back and fourth from camp4. Watching Enock navigate Yosemite efficiently in his wheelchair was inspiring. He learned the bus schedule, figured out how to most effectively carry equipment, and which trails were best suited for wheelchairs (As it turns out, Yosemite has quite good handicap accessibility for a National Park and the wheelchair accessibility on the buses is excellent). Enock figured out how to live and train comfortably in the Valley and Yosemite had become his home away from. During this time, my confidence in Enock increased. While his rope ascension still needed some tweaking, in my opinion this was manageable. Any of the holdups he demonstrated were fixable and insignificant compared to the more pressing issue of amassing enough people to carry him to the base of the climb. To do this, we estimated we needed a team of at least 10 carriers. Without this, the climbing team was irrelevant.  We finally secured a climbing team that consisted of myself, Enock, Nick Sullens (a Yosemite Climbing Steward) and Christian Cattell (introduced to us by Timmy O’Neill). Although Enock and myself were the only two remaining from the original climbing team, and some people switched roles, everybody ended up exactly where they needed to be. The climb would not have been possible without the carry teams, ground support, logistical help, gear assistance, and support for Enock from folks living in the Valley. Each role was vital to the success of this undertaking. The climbing team made one final adjustment. We decided to bring Enock up Astroman instead of the Prow. We did so for a couple of reasons. For one, we would climb wall style and Enock would ascend multiple pitches and sleep in a portaledge, thus allowing him to learn most of the systems he would need to climb El Cap the following year. Secondly, it meant the rest of our team could enjoy some excellent free-climbing.  The day before the climb, we shuttled gear up to the base of Astroman. We were aware that this preparation was frivolous if we did not secure a carry-team. While shuttling loads, I was sending text-messages back and forth, trying desperately to round up a team. That evening, prior to going to bed, we still only had a 4 person carry-team, not nearly enough. In desperation, I made one last effort and walked around Camp4 searching for helpers. I sheepishly entered a campsite that happened to be hosting a party, and to my astonishment was able to round up 5 more people! I was elated but also concerned they wouldn’t actually wake up the next morning. To my relief, at 6:30 a.m the following morning all 5 met the rest of the group at the SAR site. Everybody was psyched. In total there were about 15 people to help carry. Seeing all those strangers there at the crack of dawn was downright inspiring - a site to behold.  The carry was well organized. We transported Enock safely in a litter through uneven, steep terrain. The quantity of helping hands made the carry both efficient and safe. We were able to rotate jobs from carrying, to spotting, and resting; and at no point did it feel as though anybody was lifting too much. We beamed Enock through the most challenging terrain, passing him gently from one stance to the next, everybody scrambling to help where they could. It was inspirational to see this process unfold, a bunch of strangers working together as a team. Every so often, I glanced down at Enock lying peacefully on the litter with his arms crossed across his chest. The trust he had in the carry-team to get him safely to the base and the courage required to ask for that much help was admirable. We reached the base in less than two hours. Everybody cheered (actually mostly monkey noises) and we passed around a celebratory Cobra malt liquor before the carry team hiked down.    The rest of us remained and prepared to climb. We packed the haul bags, Enock prepared his own kit, and Nick racked-up and started leading the first two pitches. Our strategy was to have a climber lead each pitch and use a tag line to shuttle up a static rope for Enock, myself, and the haul bags. The second climber then follow the leader and I jugged next to Enock. This allowed me attend to Enock while also filming. Enock uses an ascender altered with a pull-up bar for improved grip to move up the rope. Without the use of his legs, he relies solely on his upper body to essentially do pull-ups as he ascends the rope. Vertical terrain allows for easier progress for Enock as there is less friction between his body and the rock. As Enock started up the first pitch, it was amazing. In some ways, he had begun the easiest part of the trip. He had made it through all of the uncertainty and he was finally able to just focus on climbing – no different really from why we all climb, so we can focus on that single task and be in the moment. I asked him how he was feeling and he became very emotional. He expressed his gratitude for everybody who helped out and was overwhelmed with happiness. The first two pitches were the most challenging as they were slabby and thus created signficant friction. That first day, we completed 5 pitches ending at the top of the Enduro Corner on a decent ledge. We moved efficiently considering the heavy hauling and the fact that this was Enock’s first significant climb. That evening, Enock got to spend his first night in a portaledge.  The weather forecast showed a chance of thunderstorms the following evening. Considering the effort needed to rappel with the haul bags, Enock (who cannot rappel and must be lowered) and also the hike out (which would be treacherous carrying Enock over wet, rocky terrain), we weren’t too keen on getting caught in a storm. Additionally, at this point Enock had effectively done what he needed to prepare for a larger climb: He efficiently climbed 6 pitches, spent a night on a portaledge, practiced transitions, and got a glimpse of what it would take to climb El Cap. Accordingly, we decided we would start heading down the following day.  We enjoyed a wonderful evening with clear, calm skies and Enock learned what its like to sleep in the vertical world. The next morning we took Enock up one more pitch, lowered down to the ledges, and then packed up and prepared to descend. Due to our climb being cut short a day, we had not yet arranged a carry-out team. I sent out a text message hoping our ground crew would be able to hastily assemble a team. Our tactic for descending Atroman was to use two 70m ropes tied together to lower Enock all the way to the ground while Nick rappelled next to him. Then Christian and I each rappelled, each with one haul bag. After we made it down, Enock remained at the base while Nick, Christian and I began shuttling gear back down to the parking lot. When we arrived at the parking lot, we were relieved to be greeted by a carry-out team of 10 people! We hiked back up, strapped Enock safely into the litter and carried him out. Many of the same folks from the carry-in team also helped hike out! Again, I was blown away by how everybody rallied with such short notice.  Enock flew home to Maine a couple days later. I helped him carry his luggage over from camp4 to the cafeteria where he caught the bus to the Fresno Airport. I watched him get hoisted into the bus by the automated handicap life before waving goodbye. That afternoon I hiked up to Glacier Point to work on a photo timelapse and some illustrations. While I was drawing I reflected on how this experience was so influential. This trip was quite different from previous ones I’ve made to the Valley. Typically I show up to Yosemite with my own climbing goals. I spend my time prepping for a couple significant climbs and I am focused on all the details required to make that happen. For this trip, however, I showed up without a rack or any lofty climbing goals of my own. Instead, I spent most of my trip observing Enock’s transformation. I was inspired and honored to witness the process unfold and to have the opportunity to observe all that Enock experienced. Enock camped in the Valley without a car, pushed himself around in a wheel chair, and relied on the bus system for almost a month - there was nothing efficient about this process- yet he made it happen.  People travel from all over the world to climb in Yosemite, focused on very specific personal climbing objectives, and rightly so as they invest large quantities of time and money to climb some of the best and largest granite features in the world. During his time in the Valley, Enock fostered something unique within the climbing community. People came out of the woodwork, compelled by something other than their own climbing objectives. Why did people help Enock? I suppose there were a variety of reasons. However, I speculate we all see ourselves reflected in Enock. His presence was a reminder that each and every one of us could be in a wheelchair, and that if that were the case, we would surely hope that the community would rally for us.  Enock was able to accomplish so much, yet he could not have done so without the generous support of the Yosemite community. In my opinion, one of Enock’s greatest accomplishments was not the climbing, rather his uniting of the Yosemite community. I asked Enock what he thought of his experience and he told me “I didn’t climb exactly what I wanted but I got what I needed.” I think Enock got a lot more out of Yosemite than he bargained for, something more significant than climbing El Cap. He left with a greater understanding of both the Valley’s limitations and its allure. Enock showed up to Yosemite not even knowing what he did not know. He left with a new community and the experience to climb El Cap next year. What he shared with the Valley was equally as special: help is available if you want it.  www.muderlakart.com -the monkeys are sending |
|
AWESOME! AWESOME!!!!! |
|
The look of happiness on his face is so awesome. |
|
Eric what an awesome story! Thanks for helping to make that happen, well done! |
|
Fantastic! The best thing I've seen on MP in a long time. A LONG time. |
|
I was so stoked to see this pop up in the Fresno Bee after seeing Christian's retelling on Facebook. |
|
Hope Enock is doing well. (**cough** 7 years later). It's the journey after all. |
Billcoe wrote: I'm glad you revived the thread enough for me to notice it--what an amazing experience to learn about! |
