A Brief History of Time 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | Richard Rossiter, 1997 |
| Submitted By: | Matt Bauman on Jan 1, 2001 |
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BETA PHOTO: A Brief History of Time. Climb the big flake, pla...
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Description Just down the gully from Gully Washer locate a hand crack in a right-facing flake. Climb the crack as it fades over a steep face...where it curves right and fades, climb up and left past a bolt (first crux) on steep slab to a flared crack...follow crack up until you see 2 bolts on slab to the right and traverse to the steep, finger crack (might want to extend these cuz of the rope drag and zig-zag nature of the climb below the crack)...crank up this perfect finger crack, thru bulge (crux) and up to easier terrain and a chain anchor...lower 80 feet to the ground.
Protection Stoppers and small to medium cams, 3 bolts protect a blank face...chain anchor.
Pebby Johns climbing the easy but fun flake at the...
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Just before clipping the first bolt.
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Victor just finishing the traverse.
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| Comments on A Brief History of Time |
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By Mark Ferguson
Jun 21, 2001
| This climb is fun and worth doing but it has to be the easiest 5.9 I have ever done. To protect before and after the bolts. All you need is a few medium cams and a blue TCU |
By Darin Lang
Jun 22, 2001
| If "easy" means "one move wonder", I would agree. The crux move (or two) is solid 9, though. |
By shad O'Neel
Jul 23, 2002
| Truly a one move wonder, but a decent climb. I thought the bottom was better than the crux, which I found tricky but not exquisite. Still, it was a fun problem, that I'm sure I'll climb again someday. The nut placement through the crux moves is so gorgeous, it almost makes the climb worthy just to place that nut! |
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 23, 2002
| I don't find this climb to be a one-move wonder. After some easy crack climbing, you step left onto a slab and make some delicate moves up, with an airy traverse right to an insecure stance below a finger crack. Place some great wired nuts and fire the crux moves up the crack. Easier climbing leads to the belay. Good rock, good variety, airy moves: two stars in my book. |
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 23, 2002
| Fun, airy climbing, but not a Dream Canyon ultra-classic. |
By David Hodges
From: Parker, Colorado
Jul 15, 2006
rating: 5.9
| I really thought this route was pretty fun. 2 cruxes for me: the first was clipping the first bolt from an awkward stance, then second was getting established in the crack. I protected the finger crack crux with a red Alien. Enjoy! |
By Craig Quincy
Jul 26, 2007
| There's a new bolted route just right of this. 5.10 or so taking the bulge via stemming in the scoop on the right. Fun. |
By David Houston
From: Boulder, Colorado
Jul 17, 2011
| Fun route with mixed bolts and gear. We toproped a variation that starts between this and Timeless, goes up the slab to the roof, reach up to the arete and step over the roof at perhaps 5.8+, continue up the arete until you meet up with History, step left and go up the black dish a few feet left of the crux crack of History at maybe 5.10-. This could be bolted as another route but would be a bit of a squeeze job. The logical thing would be for History to finish staight up on the black scoop with one new bolt and the new route could take over History's crack finish. BTW I found the crux of History to be the slabby step left at the first bolt rather than the upper crack but that may speak more to my weaknesses than the route! |
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