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A Brief History of Time T 
Broken Dreams 
Down, Not Out 
Dreamscape S 
Dry Ice S 
Flying Vee T,TR 
Gully Washer S 
Jake's Problem 
Journey to Ixtlan S 
Long Lost Dreams 
Phantasmagoria T,S 
Red Limit S 
Route between Timeless and Gully Washer S 
Sea of Dreams S 
Simone Has Dreams TR 
Soul on Ice S 
Stained Glass S 
Tales of Power S 
Timeless aka New Route Right of A Brief History S 
Wet Dreams S 
Whippers in Time S 
Wrinkles in Time S 

A Brief History of Time 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter, 1997
Page Views: 3,732
Submitted By: Matt Bauman on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (58)
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Victor just finishing the traverse.

Description 

Just down the gully from Gully Washer locate a hand crack in a right-facing flake. Climb the crack as it fades over a steep face...where it curves right and fades, climb up and left past a bolt (first crux) on steep slab to a flared crack...follow crack up until you see 2 bolts on slab to the right and traverse to the steep, finger crack (might want to extend these cuz of the rope drag and zig-zag nature of the climb below the crack)...crank up this perfect finger crack, thru bulge (crux) and up to easier terrain and a chain anchor...lower 80 feet to the ground.

Protection 

Stoppers and small to medium cams, 3 bolts protect a blank face...chain anchor.


Photos of A Brief History of Time Slideshow Add Photo
Pebby Johns climbing the easy but fun flake at the start.
Pebby Johns climbing the easy but fun flake at the...
A Brief History of Time.  Climb the big flake, place a couple of pieces of pro, and step left onto a slab.  Work up and right past three bolts, then fire the flared finger and hand crack (crux). More slab climbing leads to the anchor.
BETA PHOTO: A Brief History of Time. Climb the big flake, pla...
Just before clipping the first bolt.
Just before clipping the first bolt.
Brian on the fun crack/flake.
Brian on the fun crack/flake.

Comments on A Brief History of Time Add Comment
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By Mark Ferguson
Jun 21, 2001

This climb is fun and worth doing but it has to be the easiest 5.9 I have ever done. To protect before and after the bolts. All you need is a few medium cams and a blue TCU
By Darin Lang
Jun 22, 2001

If "easy" means "one move wonder", I would agree. The crux move (or two) is solid 9, though.
By shad O'Neel
Jul 23, 2002

Truly a one move wonder, but a decent climb. I thought the bottom was better than the crux, which I found tricky but not exquisite. Still, it was a fun problem, that I'm sure I'll climb again someday. The nut placement through the crux moves is so gorgeous, it almost makes the climb worthy just to place that nut!
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 23, 2002

I don't find this climb to be a one-move wonder. After some easy crack climbing, you step left onto a slab and make some delicate moves up, with an airy traverse right to an insecure stance below a finger crack. Place some great wired nuts and fire the crux moves up the crack. Easier climbing leads to the belay. Good rock, good variety, airy moves: two stars in my book.
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 23, 2002

Fun, airy climbing, but not a Dream Canyon ultra-classic.
By David Hodges
From: Parker, Colorado
Jul 15, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I really thought this route was pretty fun. 2 cruxes for me: the first was clipping the first bolt from an awkward stance, then second was getting established in the crack. I protected the finger crack crux with a red Alien. Enjoy!
By Craig Quincy
Jul 26, 2007

There's a new bolted route just right of this. 5.10 or so taking the bulge via stemming in the scoop on the right. Fun.
By David Houston
From: Boulder, Colorado
Jul 17, 2011

Fun route with mixed bolts and gear. We toproped a variation that starts between this and Timeless, goes up the slab to the roof, reach up to the arete and step over the roof at perhaps 5.8+, continue up the arete until you meet up with History, step left and go up the black dish a few feet left of the crux crack of History at maybe 5.10-. This could be bolted as another route but would be a bit of a squeeze job. The logical thing would be for History to finish staight up on the black scoop with one new bolt and the new route could take over History's crack finish. BTW I found the crux of History to be the slabby step left at the first bolt rather than the upper crack but that may speak more to my weaknesses than the route!
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Oct 20, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This has 3 bolts, but the D'Antonio guide lists the route as only having 2 bolts.