|Original:||YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a R [details]|
|FA:||John Allen & Alec Sharp|
|Submitted By:||steve dieckhoff on Nov 9, 2001|
|Comments on A Breed Apart||Add Comment|
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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Nov 17, 2003
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
The rack for this climb is one 2.5" cam, then 2-3 each .75"-1.5" cams. That way you can double-down whenever you can get pro. As well, instead of pulling right the last few feet to finish on Blackwalk, you can ride a left-leading solid, clean fingers-to-wide-fingers crack (1-1.5") a far a ways up toward the anchor at 28M at the top of Blackwalk.
This climb should probably carry the 11a rating, but is tougher for an on-sight. Fear notwithstanding, the crux move is kinda slick and hard- while gear is just below the feet you will be a little off kilter here-twisted and leaning, and a fall would be unpleasant though short. That said, you'd understand why I was F'ing around on it for a while trying to figure out a better position/move. Though I was on TR, the intention was a preview for a lead because I am a chicken about obscure R-rated 5.11s.
What should be the real discouragement from leading is not the crux, nor the subjective hazard of falling off in the 'easy' section (5.10) where it is runout. Rather, it is the objective hazard of a shattered, 'crunchy' hold about 1/2 way through the runout popping. It is shifty as it is. I pulled on it pretty Darn hard before I saw what I was on and then when I saw it and looks down at the distance to last available pro, I didn't like it.
Your opinion may vary, and while you'd have to flash this route to really experience it (as the crux will be 11a, not 11b/c once previewed), I can't in good conscience suggest that is a good idea. There's one time bomb up there in a dangerous spot, and it's blind until you make the move.
Aug 14, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
|Worthless squeeze job.|