a. Beginning of cliff to Gelsa Rock Climbing
Tricia starting up the big Gelsa corner.
This section of cliff has a number of moderate multi-pitch routes. Many of them are left-facing corners that are more recognizeable to find once you've walked past them, then look back at them.
For most routes in this area, you'll want to top out and walk back along a climbers' trail -almost- all the way back to the road, then scramble down back when it's possible to the base of the cliff. Gelsa
is the massive right-facing hanging corner that's visible from the Deli. The corner does not reach the ground, but -- glance up. Yep, that's it! Or: look for a tree growing out and up from the base of the cliff at a pile of boulders below a blocky crack (see picture below).
Next section: b. Gelsa to Moe (closure)
If you're feeling adventurous and it's not crowded, consider the long traverse route of Easy Rider
From the trail in, this is the first set of routes you come to along the cliff. The very first thing you see is the massive Kansas City
Weather station 3.2 miles from here
32 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',21],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in a. Beginning of cliff to Gelsa
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in a. Beginning of cliff to Gelsa
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for a. Beginning of cliff to Gelsa:
Gelsa 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, 3 pitches, 195'
Layback 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, 2 pitches, 120'
Disneyland 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, 2 pitches, 155'
Te Dum 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 2 pitches, 170'
Alphonse 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Broken Sling 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
PG13 Trad, 2 pitches, 140'
Yellow Belly 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
PG13 Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Easy Rider 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
PG13 Trad, 10 pitches, 790'
Swing Time 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
PG13 Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Kansas City 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Featured Route For a. Beginning of cliff to Gelsa
Fat City Direct 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
: The Gunks
: ... : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge...
This is the best route in the Nears -- it weaves its way up an impossible-looking wave of rock at an accessible grade and on almost entirely natural pro. I believe it is typically done in two or three pitches, but it makes for a spectacular single pitch -- just use lots of long runners. The Fat City wall is pretty obvious: 'Direct starts below a small roof with a hand crack in it. This area is before you reach the Birdland area.You get a good rest before the crux, then you must perform a diff...[more] Browse More Classics in NY