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a. Beginning of cliff to Gelsa

Routes Sorted
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Alphonse 
Baskerville Terrace 
Broken Sling 
Criss 
Criss Cross Direct 
Disney Point 
Disneyland 
Easy Rider 
Fat City Direct 
Fat Stick 
Fat Stick Direct 5.10b 
G-String Giants 
Gelsa 
Grand Central 
Hounds, The 
Independence 
Infinite Space 
Inverted Layback 
Kansas City 
Land of The Giants 
Layback 
Le Plie 
Outer Space 
Saint Louis 
Sling Time 
Swing Time 
Te Dum 
Yellow Belly 
Yellow Ridge 

a. Beginning of cliff to Gelsa 


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Administrators: JSH, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: JSH on May 14, 2013
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Tricia starting up the big Gelsa corner.

Description 

This section of cliff has a number of moderate multi-pitch routes. Many of them are left-facing corners that are more recognizeable to find once you've walked past them, then look back at them.

For most routes in this area, you'll want to top out and walk back along a climbers' trail -almost- all the way back to the road, then scramble down back when it's possible to the base of the cliff.

Gelsa is the massive right-facing hanging corner that's visible from the Deli. The corner does not reach the ground, but -- glance up. Yep, that's it! Or: look for a tree growing out and up from the base of the cliff at a pile of boulders below a blocky crack (see picture below).
Next section: b. Gelsa to Moe (closure).

If you're feeling adventurous and it's not crowded, consider the long traverse route of Easy Rider.


Getting There 

From the trail in, this is the first set of routes you come to along the cliff. The very first thing you see is the massive Kansas City roof.


28 Total Routes


['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',20],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',6],['5.8',5],['5.9',3],['5.10',5],['5.11',3],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for a. Beginning of cliff to Gelsa:
Gelsa   5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c     Trad, 3 pitches, 195'   
Layback   5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a     Trad, 2 pitches, 120'   
Disneyland   5.6 4c 14 V S 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 155'   
Land of The Giants   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Baskerville Terrace   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 210'   
Yellow Ridge   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Te Dum   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 170'   
Alphonse   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   
Yellow Belly   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   
Broken Sling   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 140'   
Inverted Layback   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 140'   
Grand Central   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   
Criss Cross Direct   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 180'   
Fat Stick Direct 5.10b   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 180'   
The Hounds   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Disney Point   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Fat City Direct   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Swing Time   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   
Infinite Space   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Kansas City   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Classics in a. Beginning of cliff to Gelsa

Featured Route For a. Beginning of cliff to Gelsa
Jeff climbing Broken Sling.

Broken Sling 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13  NY : The Gunks : ... : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge...
One of the 5.8 testpieces of the Gunks: the "+" refers to the starting move (certainly harder than 5.8), and to the scary start of the 2nd pitch.Although short, this climb is often done in 2 pitches to avoid rope drag.This climb is easy to recognize - it is not far from where the trail brings you to the cliff, and is between the overhanging hand crack of Criss Cross Direct and the huge roof to the right of Disneyland. Broken S...[more]   Browse More Classics in NY

Photos of a. Beginning of cliff to Gelsa Slideshow Add Photo
Te Dum Pitch 1
Te Dum Pitch 1
The base of Gelsa, marked by the large tree growing up and out from the blocky crack at the base of cliff.  <br /> <br />The first belay point tree can be seen in the upper 1\5 of the pic parallel and on the right to the main tree. True color of rock is creamy yellow as seen in the other pics.
The base of Gelsa, marked by the large tree growin...
The start of Yellow Ridge, showing the offwidth crack. <br /> <br />The safest start goes up a left-facing corner and traverses left under a roof to gain the offwidth.
BETA PHOTO: The start of Yellow Ridge, showing the offwidth cr...
Disneyland's first pitch
Disneyland's first pitch
The start of Le Plie.
BETA PHOTO: The start of Le Plie.
BGraham about to take his turn on Criss Cross Direct. Early crux pictured
BGraham about to take his turn on Criss Cross Dire...
Starting Fat Stick from the ground.
Starting Fat Stick from the ground.
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