WARNING: DO NOT LEAVE ANYTHING IN YOUR VEHICLE!!! THERE ARE MANY BREAK INS HERE!!!
Mokuleia Wall or the Moke as the locals know it is a basalt cliff with mainly sport routes 40 to 90 feet in length and 5.7 to 5.13 in difficulty. Rock quality is generally good, but some of the routes can have loose rock. This area is like North Table Mountain rock wise but not polished from tons of climbing. This area on a crowded day might see 10-15 climbers but during the week there might not be anyone.
This area is equipped to be easily top-roped. Most of the routes will have strings running from the ground to the anchor and back to the ground, this is so you can clove hitch your rope and pull it through the anchors at the top. The anchors are all bomber. Most routes are labeled by name and difficulty on the piece of wood the the string is tied to. Please do not completely top out on the route as the top is very loose, thus the reason for the string system. The approach can be very hot and humid, but the base of the crag always seems to have a nice breeze. Carpet squares are available for sitting and putting your rope on while climbing. The box that has this is to the climbers left when you reach the crag. There is also a litter stashed up there for emergencies. There is one gear shop on the island, Mike from Climb Aloha is a great guy and has all the gear you might have forgotten to bring. www.climbaloha.com
Good food and beverages can be found in the town of Haleiwa to the east of the crag along Oahu's north shore.
Getting There
From the airport take hwy H-1 west to the turnoff to hwy H-2 north, 8.1 miles. Follow H-2 north until it turn into a road with stop lights, 10.9 miles. Continue up the road (830), with out turning until you get to the town of Wailua, after the gas station on the left you will veer right but end up turning left at a stop sign onto Farrington Hwy, 8.4 miles. Follow the signs to Dillingham air field. From there it is a straight shot, you will pass the airfield and the YMCA, to the parking after 7 miles. Parking is along the side of the road.
The approach is short but steep. It can take anywhere from 20 to 40 minutes depending on the person. There is a distinct trail head from the road and a decently well defined trail to the base of the crag. Most route lie to the east (climbers left) when you reach the wall but there is a plethora of routes to the west (climbers right) also. GPS location is to beginning of trail head, crag is directly ahead.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mokuleia Wall:
Route climbs a shallow dihedral passing three cruxes. First crux is a thin hands/ off fingers crack. The seconds surmounts a small roof with good jams above. The third crux is reminiscent of the the last pitch of Swansons Arete, a super thin crack in an open book that disappears into a blank face. The whole route is well protected, albeit not by the cracks but by bolts. ...[more]Browse More Classics in Hawaii
Great place to climb and a lot! There are about 56 routes here, that I've been told of. Many of them are mixed, so some of them get quite long runouts without extra pro. I took a 30' fall myself bc I chose not to use the extra pro. Good times. The approach gets quite rocky and had big rocks/boulders on it, so I wouldn't suggest doing it in flip flops (Like I did my first time). Some of the routes' first bolts are a little high, but there is a pole with a clamp on it available to set the first draw, if you're not top roping. There's also a map in the box of the routes, but it's terribly outdated. A book is currently in progress. Follow what's on the sticks with the cord. Climbing here takes a little different style than climbing in my home town, Utah. Also, the rock feels a little slippery to me due to the humidity. Cool place, great routes, but someone did try to break into my rental car (The keyhole get jacked up) so don't leave any valuables in sight. Check out climb aloha. Good selection for a home-ran shop.
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