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99% Pure 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 818
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Aug 3, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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A little cruxy getting into the crack. But if thi...


Start in the same slot used for the Original Route, but step left into the wide-ish crack. This can be protected by mid to large cams that seat perfectly. Hike up the near vertical crack for only 10 - 12 feet, and the angle of the crag drops way back. Big hands and loads of gear lead to a moderate runout for the tree. This was an enjoyable climb.


Bring several caming units with duplicate Camalots in the #2 and #3 range. The route finishes at the tree used for the Original Route.

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Cindy D.  layin' it back....
Cindy D. layin' it back....

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By Michael Kullman
May 22, 2003
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Three of us did this route yesterday evening and all agreed it was harder than 5.7- the first move stepping into the steeper hands size portion of the crack (last 12 feet or so) was pretty tough. The jams are great, but the face is very steep and thin. Fun climb though.

5.7? I think that's a bit of a sandbag, at least compared to other 5.7s in the area.
By Petro
From: Golden, CO
Aug 18, 2003
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I climbed this route for the second time, because I couldn't belive how spanked I got on a 5.7. And I also climbed the 5.8 to the right (origional route). It's funny, I cruised the 5.8, but when I got to the overhanging off-hands start to this climb, I found myself struggling a bit.

Here is my question? Richard, have you even climbed this route? Or, did you just look at the Hubbel guide? Did Hubbel do his homework?

This would not be a safe climb for a 5.7 leader, this would not be a good climb for a 5.9 sport leader either. If you want to attempt this climb, have your jams dialed, and a nice selection of hand sized pieces. I think that a 5.9 rating is a better reflection of the difficulty of this climb.

After all that, this is a sweet line that makes you wish it was only longer. Beautiful crack moves on bomber rock.
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 26, 2003

I would have to agree on the 5.9 rating. The route takes a bit of thinking on how to attack it. My friend Brain stemed up most of the way and then climbed the remaing moves just using the steep head wall. I had to take a different approach to the crack, because I am a lot shorter so I had a few more lieback moves. Great climb wish it were longer!
By Rich Kelly
Apr 30, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

We did this climb last night thinking it was 5.9 (Gillett's rating) and felt that it might even be 5.9+. No way is it 5.7! Gillett indicates it is a fist crack, but I climbed it using cups and my forearms (btw I don't trust fist jams).
By Matt Richardson
From: Longmont, CO
May 30, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

This route is definitely all about style - if you don't have the jams down you will get in trouble (as I did). The crack is right leaning and off-hands (depending on the size of the meat hooks - for Scarpelli this would probably just be hands). I climbed it with three people and each person seemed to climb it a little different - I wasn't able to get a good fist so I had to arm bar, the guy following me used fists and his wife said forget the crack and just laid the thing back the whole way. The latter option seems like a difficult position to plug pro.

I think a C4 #4 and a couple of C4 #3s make this route comfortable. And the "runout" at the top really didn't seem all that bad.
By John Korfmacher
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 29, 2009

I second the notion that the route is a major sandbag at 5.7. It is considerably harder than Original Route (5.8-) to the right. If you've got big hands, 5.9 is a fair rating; felt more like 9+ to 10a for me. Gillett lists it at 5.9 I think.

By the time you finish the crack, the runout will seem trivial. An extra #2 and #3 are helpful if you want to sew it up.
By J Marsella
From: Berthoud, CO
Sep 29, 2012

Used cupped, cammed hands and forearm-jams to get up this one. BD #3s or WC #3.5s are the way to go. Bring several....
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