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 ADVANCED
Private Idaho
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
900 Oil-stricken Waterfowl Taken to Ocean Shores T 
Battered Sandwich T 
Beckey-Stanley T 
Brad Driscoll Outnumbered His Guests But a Good Time was had by All T 
Brad Driscoll Outnumbered His Guests But a Good Time was had by All (2) T 
Brave the suppressed laughter of the tweeny maid T 
Curious Poses T 
Eraserhead S 
I am in top a shader T 
I Can See Your House From Here S 
Imagine Your Best Student Here T,S 
Istanbul T 
Magic Fern T 
Noodle T 
prairie fire that wanders, The T 
S & S T 
Senior Citizens in Space T 
Spineless S 
Tea Bag S 
Three trucks stacked on top of each other S 
unnamed 7 T 
Wet Dream T 

900 Oil-stricken Waterfowl Taken to Ocean Shores 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Greg Olsen & Jon Nelson, 1989
Page Views: 713
Submitted By: Jon Nelson on Sep 23, 2011

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Just finishing the crux section on 900 Oil-stricke...

Description 

Starts to the left of "The prairie fire that wanders" and "Eraserhead", at a slightly elevated region behind an old stump. A few moves on a flake lead to a steep, sustained headwall with bolts. The crux is not a single move, but rather the pumpy sequence to the third bolt. Being flexible can help here. Though originally rated 10c, the route has been known to stop solid 5.11 climbers.

A chained anchor lies at the top. One can rap with a single 60-m rope.

From the anchor, one can do a short bit of easy climbing to reach the anchor on "Prairie fire" to top-rope the latter. Conversely, one can top-rope "900" from the anchors on "Prairie fire".

Protection 

Five bolts. Helpful to bring a hand-to-wide-hands camming unit for the flake above the 4th bolt. Small nuts may be helpful before and after the 5th bolt.


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