900 Oil-stricken Waterfowl Taken to Ocean Shores
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Just finishing the crux section on 900 Oil-stricke...
Starts to the left of "The prairie fire that wanders" and "Eraserhead", at a slightly elevated region behind an old stump. A few moves on a flake lead to a steep, sustained headwall with bolts. The crux is not a single move, but rather the pumpy sequence to the third bolt. Being flexible can help here. Though originally rated 10c, the route has been known to stop solid 5.11 climbers.
A chained anchor lies at the top. One can rap with a single 60-m rope.
From the anchor, one can do a short bit of easy climbing to reach the anchor on "Prairie fire" to top-rope the latter. Conversely, one can top-rope "900" from the anchors on "Prairie fire".
Five bolts. Helpful to bring a hand-to-wide-hands camming unit for the flake above the 4th bolt. Small nuts may be helpful before and after the 5th bolt.
On the FA, we started further left, doing some even harder face moves. I am not sure if we used the first bolt either. (Now I cannot climb it this way, even on TR.) The very last bolt is also a recent addition. Seems rather crazy now that we rated it 10c.
The name comes from a headline in the Seattle Times around the time of the FA.
|Comments on 900 Oil-stricken Waterfowl Taken to Ocean Shores
Mar 2, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
I cleaned a ton of mud, grass, pine needles and moss off of this line on 3/1/2015, although not squeaky clean, it is very climbable now.
By Jon Nelson
From: Redmond, WA
Mar 3, 2015
When clean, it is a fantastic route.
By Scott Goodwin
From: Seattle, WA
Jun 1, 2015
Wow, the bottom half of this climb is truly fantastic! That crux move is awesome.