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Chimney Rock
Routes Sorted
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8th and Main T 
Amanecer S 
Another Roadside Attraction T 
Boardwalk T 
Centerpiece T 
Coherent Excitation T 
Copperhead 5 T 
Crows Nest T 
Electric Aunt Jemimah in Heat T 
FIUTT 
George's Buttress T,TR 
Georges Peach T,S 
Jungle Gym T 
Mistaken Identity T 
New Year's Eve T 
Perfect Peter T 
Shriveled Penis T 
Single Lens Reflex T 
Standard Route T 
Stonedmasters T 
Stoner's Boner T 
Straight Arrow T 
Stripper T 
Tomorrow is Today S 
Unstrung Harp T 
Venus' Flytrap And Environs T,TR 
Venus' Flytrap And Environs. T,S,TR 
Veranda T 
Yardarm variation to Crows Nest T 

8th and Main 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Merle Wheeler, Gale McDonald 1971
Page Views: 1,029
Submitted By: Wes Turner on May 9, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: 8th and Main

Description 

walk E along Chimney rock and you will see a 50' section of offwidth...some of it is grassy down low but there is a really nice20'section of O/W near the top. belay on a ledge with cams(.5-1) above the O/W. then angle up and lft over a steep seam(1 move) and continue up and left to the top. this P2 that I am talking about might be part of boardwalk.

Protection 

Small to large cams a # 4 works great in the offwidth seciton.


Photos of 8th and Main Slideshow Add Photo
one way to finish an off-width..
one way to finish an off-width..

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By Anonymous Coward
Feb 3, 2005

My God. I can't believe I found info on this route. The "off-width/chimney" was a new climber's dream workout. I climbed it back in 1980-1982 when I lived in Tucson and worked for the Drexel Heights Fire Dept. What ever happened the original, 3-ring bound, hand written and typed climbing guide that used to be kept at the Summit Hut store? We well-known's were sometimes allowed to borrow and Xerox copies of it - wish I still had mine. Someone may have published the guide, I don't really know. Anyway, I'm Mike Minto - if anyone remembers me from those days, drop me a line at mlminto@cox.net. Happy Climbing! Feb 2005
By Nathan Fisher
Jan 30, 2006

FA Merle Wheeler, Gale McDonald 1971
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Mar 30, 2007

While the offwidth section is only about 20 feet, this route showed me the difference between a "true" offwidth and an "offwidth" where you can use face holds, laybacks, etc..
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 13, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

ditto what christian said. sweet jebus!
By 1Eric Rhicard
Nov 10, 2008

A Crazy Catalonian talked me into doing this yesterday. It was fun and safe with two #3 camalots and a #4. It is only 20ft. of climbing which is just the right amount of off width for most normal humans. No need to break it into two pitches just use long runners around the chockstone and take it to the top.
By Dwook
Apr 13, 2010

The bottom is a fun 5.8 didn't bother topping out...BTW my partner and I replaced webbing on the boulder/tree as recently as 2 weeks ago. :>