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Routes Sorted
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84.1% Eclipse of the Heart (The Eclipse Route) 
Black Bunny Rabbit  
Boodalicious Baby 
Dolphin Girl 
First First 
Monk Sandals 
Newb Nation 
RSG 
Rudimentary Extraction 
Soul Steeler 

84.1% Eclipse of the Heart (The Eclipse Route) 

5.8

   
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Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Consensus: 5.7+ [details]
FA: Randall Chapman
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring-Fall
Submitted By: Rschap on May 27, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Nick on the start moves of 84.1% Eclipse of the He...

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Description 

84.1% Eclipse of the Heart (The Eclipse Route) is shorter with only 5 bolts. I was going to take it higher, but the rock quality degrades above the anchor. The crux is at the 3rd bolt where you can either move left of the bolt or right, moving right is easier but more exposed. Stay right after the last bolt to avoid loose rock. The 2012 solar eclipse happened as I hand drilled the anchor after my battery went dead, hence the name. Watch out for cactus near the third bolt.


Location 

The route starts 15 feet left of First First.


Protection 

5 quickdraws.



Photos of 84.1% Eclipse of the Heart (The Eclipse Route) Slideshow Add Photo
Nick clipping the first bolt on 84.1% Eclipse of the Heart.

Nick clipping the first bolt on 84.1% Eclipse of t...

Nick going left instead of right on the crux on 84.1% Eclipse of the Heart. Either way works.

Nick going left instead of right on the crux on 84...

The route goes right of the tree the rope is running over at the top.

BETA PHOTO: The route goes right of the tree the rope is runni...

Sarah clipping the first bolt on 84.1% Eclipse of the Heart.

Sarah clipping the first bolt on 84.1% Eclipse of ...