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84.1% Eclipse of the Heart (The Eclipse Route) S 
Black Bunny Rabbit  S 
Boodalicious Baby T 
Dolphin Girl T 
First First T 
Monk Sandals T 
Newb Nation S 
RSG S 
Rudimentary Extraction T 
Soul Steeler S 

84.1% Eclipse of the Heart (The Eclipse Route) 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Randall Chapman
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring-Fall
Page Views: 979
Submitted By: Rschap on May 27, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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BETA PHOTO: The route goes right of the tree the rope is runni...

Description 

84.1% Eclipse of the Heart (The Eclipse Route) is shorter with only 5 bolts. I was going to take it higher, but the rock quality degrades above the anchor. The crux is at the 3rd bolt where you can either move left of the bolt or right, moving right is easier but more exposed. Stay right after the last bolt to avoid loose rock. The 2012 solar eclipse happened as I hand drilled the anchor after my battery went dead, hence the name. Watch out for cactus near the third bolt.

Location 

The route starts 15 feet left of First First.

Protection 

5 quickdraws.


Photos of 84.1% Eclipse of the Heart (The Eclipse Route) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Nick clipping the first bolt on 84.1% Eclipse of t...
Nick clipping the first bolt on 84.1% Eclipse of t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Nick on the start moves of 84.1% Eclipse of the He...
Nick on the start moves of 84.1% Eclipse of the He...
Rock Climbing Photo: Nick going left instead of right on the crux on 84...
Nick going left instead of right on the crux on 84...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sarah clipping the first bolt on 84.1% Eclipse of ...
Sarah clipping the first bolt on 84.1% Eclipse of ...

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