80 Proof Roof
|335 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.10b [details]|
|FA: ||Bill Cramer, Mark Uphus & Michelle Pinney, January 1989|
|Season: ||Late fall to early spring|
|Submitted By: ||Graham Roff on Feb 27, 2006|
BETA PHOTO: Cerro Torre tower proper in the background, the ro...
This route climbs the face to the right of the chimney on Cerro Torre Tower.
Climb up the start of the chimney then traverse right to the first bolt. Continue up the face, staying to the right side past one more bolt to the roof. Pull a strenuous move from the corner to surmount the roof. Finish a few more tricky slab moves then on to easier terrain to the top.
This is a good route with thought provoking moves on somewhat lose rock. Not for the beginning 5.10 or JT climber.
Rap down to the climber's right to avoid getting the rope caught in the chimney. A 60m rope is best (not sure if a 50 would get you all the way down).
Two bolts "protect" the bottom. Gear (0.5-1" cam) can be placed under the roof. Two more bolts follow on the upper slab section.
The rap anchor at the top currently consists of four or five old pieces of webbing and one rap ring. A gear anchor can be made for belaying a second with 1-3" cams.
BETA PHOTO: "80 Proof Roof".
Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: 80 Proof Roof, 5.10
|Comments on 80 Proof Roof
From: Tucson, Arizona
Mar 1, 2006
This climb could deserve a PG or R. Very high-value, memorable climb.
|By Mike Hack|
Mar 10, 2006
I never felt totally secure on this one. There are some heady moves pretty far above the bolts. The moves leading to the roof are definitely not as easy as they appear from below . . .
Jan 7, 2011
this is a really good route imho. passing the bolts on the way to the overhang has some tenuous moments, MOST of which are not too run out. Indeed it felt insecure, but not hard. you will definitely be thinking on this route...
do drano, fitzoy and this one for a quality afternoon away from the crowds.