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80 Grit 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jason Haas, Mike Morin, Kevin Stricker, Eric Schmeer and Dave Montgomery
Page Views: 1,122
Submitted By: Alex A on May 27, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (31)
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Dave enjoys the climb.

Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start right of large boulder, follow a black streak, climb up a featured face to a bulge, then make some slab moves to steep upper headwall crux. The guide says do a big toss to a big jug, (more like a dead point to a pocket) but the lower part of the hold is sloper. There is a pocket above it.

Protection 

11 bolts.


Photos of 80 Grit Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Super long route. So FUN!
BETA PHOTO: Super long route. So FUN!

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By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
May 29, 2013
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

FWIW, you don't have to dyno. This is not a boy climb. Footwork really makes it not strenuous. Sunglasses are not recommended.
By Chick on Crack
From: Superior, CO
Jul 14, 2013

Found the pockets, but not the "big jugs". Insert TWSS comment here. This route re-sparked my enthusiasm for climbing! Friend that led, a seasoned climber, ran out of steam at the crux and broke a hold off around the second bolt.

(I agree with Leo, footwork is key. Enjoy the features, no need to dyno through them.)
By aikibujin
From: Castle Rock, CO
Oct 12, 2015
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Another vote for no dyno needed, not even a deadpoint. Work on getting your feet high while you have your hands on a jug. I'm 5'7" with 0+ ape index, and I was able to reach the pocket statically with room to spare.
By SeanMc123
Jun 10, 2016
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Wonderful climb! There are three distinct sections. I was very surprised after manteling up above the initial face that's clearly visible from the ground to find 3 bolts on a slab topped with a jug headwall. The climb begins with interesting rock and great edges, then I grabbed a monster jug out left and stood up to the slab. The slab is thought-provoking and climbs for just enough to get into the groove before the headwall arrives. The top headwall offers a variety of jugs with the climbing getting slightly less obvious to gain the anchor. My only advice for the onsight up top is to dig deep. Also be aware that when I climbed it the third bolt was a slight spinner. It looked solid to my untrained eye, and it is not in a particularly difficult section.
By Scott Hunt
From: Broomfield, CO
Jul 3, 2016
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

It's got everything you love or hate. As others said, work your feet up at the end before going for that left bucket.

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