||Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch, 80'
|Consensus: ||WI6 M8 [details]|
|FA: ||Chris Harmston|
|Page Views: ||906|
|Submitted By: ||Stymingersfink on Jan 30, 2008|
You & This Route
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Scott Adamson making an attempt at the mixed line ...
If you're not cruising over WI5 it will take most of the day to get up there, but a solid leader with quality ice on the preceding pitches should have no problem getting there with time to spare. Strive to get started before the crack of noon and you should be off the wall before sunset!
Climb Stairway to Heaven through pitch 6. The opening moves to 7th Heaven are located almost directly in line with the P5 and P6 anchors. Find the bolt line angling right, clipping bolts to a large ice blob, a screw, a bolt or two, another ice blob stubbie, then bolts through the roof to the exit dagger. This dagger is often the only ice of any substantial weight hanging from anywhere on the p7 roof edge.
4 bolts to first ice blob, two bolts between the ice blobs, there should be two bolts between the upper blob and the dagger, though one currently needs to be replaced due to rockfall
Scott Adamson on the 7th Heaven.