|North Face of Pike's Peak
This route has some fun, steep drytooling and a pretty pleasant, ice choked groove on the second pitch and provides a good option if Total Abandon and Blind Assumption are crowded. It actually contains a lot more climbing than Total Abandon.
1) Follow the groove past some steeper spots and some turf to a snowy ledge with a fixed nut, 130 feet, M2.
2) Continue up the feature as it steepens and then gets icy, belaying on the next snowy patch. There is a fixed anchor at the snowy patch if you dig enough, 150 feet, WI3 M4.
3) Follow the steepening dihedral with a crux breaking left over an arete. The climbing eases somewhat at this point. Above the crux is a left-trending ramp which is followed to a good ledge level with the top of Total Abandon, 160 feet, M5.
From here, it is an easy scramble to the walk off ledge for Total Abandon.
This follows the leftmost groove system in the alcove right of Total Abandon.
A screw or two and a plentiful supply of rock gear to #2 Camalot.
G. Griscom, J. Thomson, B. Collett on 66 Years of ...
|By erik wellborn|
From: manitou springs
Oct 15, 2013
Noah and I climbed the first two pitches in September and then bailed due to the nasty choss at the crux, we dubbed it The Litter Box. It looks a lot more fun with some snow and ice!