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 ADVANCED
Lookout Mountain Crag
Select Route:
5.10 Crack aka "Thin Fingers" T,TR 
5.10a Face S 
5.7 Arete TR 
5.7 Dihedral T,TR 
5.7 Face TR 
5.8 Crack T,TR 
5.9 Crack aka "Into the Void" T,TR 
5.9 Face S 
Changing Corners TR 
Shake 'N' Bake T,S 

5.9 Crack aka "Into the Void" 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,260
Submitted By: ClimbandMine on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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Mike on the crux overhang

Description 

This route is the slabby crack left of the 10a face/roof route. It contains a few moderately interesting overlaps before getting to the big split in the roof, which can be pulled on jugs. Not the greatest route in the world, and the roof is probably not good for a beginning trad leader.

Protection 

A light rack should suffice.


Photos of 5.9 Crack aka "Into the Void" Slideshow Add Photo
Toproping left of the 5.8 crack.
Toproping left of the 5.8 crack.
Whew!  Close one with that falling boulder!
Whew! Close one with that falling boulder!
BETA PHOTO
Rob over the overhang.
Rob over the overhang.
Peter Dillon at the crux roof.  The moves over the roof are strenuous, and closer to 5.9 than 5.8.
Peter Dillon at the crux roof. The moves over the...
Into the Void.
BETA PHOTO: Into the Void.
Irina Overeem working up the crack.
Irina Overeem working up the crack.
Sharon pulling the roof!
Sharon pulling the roof!
Irina Overeem tackling the crux roof.
Irina Overeem tackling the crux roof.
Crazy unknown climber doing a trad, lead, solo?? 5-9-12.
Crazy unknown climber doing a trad, lead, solo?? 5...
Ryan Following my lead of the Void, we had toproped the route before we tried to lead it though... LOL
Ryan Following my lead of the Void, we had toprope...
Kristin Knudson conquers the overhang to meet with her belayer, Chris Perkins.  Photo by James Crasta.
Kristin Knudson conquers the overhang to meet with...

Comments on 5.9 Crack aka "Into the Void" Add Comment
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By Matt White
Feb 27, 2002

This is a really nice 60 foot crack. I have to disagree with D-Lo -- this route deserves two stars.

Bring a set of wires, a couple of RPs, and two or three small to medium cams to lead it, with a #3 or #3.5 Camalot for the wide crack in the overlap 3/4 of the way up.

There is a perfect jug for turning the roof. Above the roof there are two or three goofy, sideways, off-balance, unprotected moves to get to the top of the crag. If you peel here, you'll hit the slab below the roof REALLY, REALLY HARD. Be careful.
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 7, 2003
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

An excellent pitch. The moves over the roof are strenuous, and closer to 5.9 than 5.8.

An excellent crack climb with a strenuous roof.

Strenuous moves over the roof.
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 12, 2003

I say two stars as well. The only thing that holds it back from three stars is the lower angle start and shortness. Might be 5.8 once you know the holds, but for an onsight lead will feel harder and much more committing. Once you commit, there's no going back and when you turn the lip the jugs go away and so does the pro. There is a perfect slot for a 0.75 Camalot Jr. or equivalent in roof itself, but you can make a 0.50 work as well (I did).
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 18, 2003

Fun crack climbing to a committing roof (5.9). If you plan on leading this one you should be soild at this grade. Great rest just below the roof, shake out, place some good gear and pull over the roof on large holds.
By Anonymous Coward
Nov 19, 2004

This is a great first aid lead, tiny wires and cams make it fun.
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Sep 28, 2006

[Ed. - a duplicate route was submitted as "Into the Void" by Steve Matthys on Sep 10, 2002 with the following description]:

This route is #4 on the beta photo. Fun climb on lead or TR. A tiny runout at the start, but nothing to worry about. Good intermediate climb.

Drape slings over the roof unless you plan on sending the roof without falling. A fall from the roof would hurt pretty bad. Full range of cams and stoppers. TR bolts are located behind the boulder.
By Phil Persson
From: Denver, Colorado
Oct 7, 2008

Great Route! Unusual quality rock compared to your typical Clear Creek metamorphosed Choss. More of a true gneiss than much of the low-grade metapelitic schist/arkose [low temp/pressure metamorphosed sedimentary rocks basically] found in the rest of the upper canyon. Sorry for the geologist-speak! :)
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Nov 29, 2012

There are no bolts directly above this climb. Gear anchors are possible. You can top rope it using the bolts above the 5.10 face to the right, or the bolts above the 5.7 arete to the left. Using either set of bolts sets you up for a potential swing should you fall at the crux.