5.9+ = v0-v1 crack problems what's your opinion

So I know it's a common question amongst most climbers everywhere across the U.S. and probably other areas because I've been from New York to Hawaii and it's came up all along the way. There is the general confusion around the subject especially when it comes to crack climbing. Most people know gym to the great outdoors is an obvious difference in difficulty then you throw the infamous crack into it and you average boulderer (< I know not a word) don't know what's going on. As soon as you see the guy who boulders v6+ bomb on a v1-2 crack it's all of a sudden "sand bagged and must be a v7+.) Everyone on MP has a masters degree or doctorate in rock climbing so lets here it, what's your opinion?

No.

Having gotten my doctorate at Gunks university, I'd say most cracks feel around V8 or so. Offwidths are most certainly impossible and I don't believe anyone has actually climbed them.

I'm not sure I understand what you're asking? Everyone knows that your average "v6 gym climber" can't climb a 5.9+ granite splitter; not because they're not strong, but because it takes skill gained through practice.... I know a dude who can CRUSH v10 that got shut down on "Stem Gem." It was awesome, and a nice reminder that it's not all about strength!
Is that it? Are you just reminding us that different types of climbing help you develop various skill sets??
Oh, and I received my doctorate in pretending to be brave while shitting my pants on Granite Mountain, if you need credentials.

Having graduated Junior High crack school at the Gunks myself, V0 is about solid 5.10 in cracks. What is the name of the crack near The Brat, Gill's crack possibly? Believe it is about V3 or 5.11. Now if I got the name and grade wrong I am sorry but it has been a number of years since I have done it and remember it being right on in the grade. There are a number of cracks or crack moves in the Gunks to explore. My favorite is Climb and Punishment. One or two moves of thin hands but it gets your attention. Thanks to Ajax for showing me how it's done. Remember if it hurts you are probably jamming it correctly.

V0 sloper problem = 5.9 sloper problem
V0 crack problem = 5.9 crack problem
V0 jug problem = 5.9 jug problem
V0 sloper problem != V0 crack problem (depending on what you are used to climbing)

I don't understand the question here??? Any style of climbing will match up about the same as the other. However nothing translates perfectly between another climb. I know 5.8s that are extremely sustained and harder than some 5.11s I have climbed. Technically the single hardest move was alot harder on the 5.11 but when you have 10ft of really hard moves at the start of a route and than a 5.2 ladder the rest of the way it just doesn't always mean it will be harder than that 100ft of nothing easier than a 5.8 move with no rest.

Than when you get into trad it is another completely different thing. 10ft of 5.10 climbing between ledges with good gear placement is alot easier than sustained 5.8 climbing where you have to place gear with 1 hand in tricky placements.

Just don't be like some people I know and take ratings at face value, there is alot more to a route than the grade.

I don't have a crack degree yet but I'm studying at Mt. Woodson and Tahquitz in California currently. I was just talking it over with my partner and we were just wondering how the rating equate. Not really to worried about ratings or anything, I've just heard a lot of people talk about it and never heard a straight answer. Plus I work with a guy who boulders "v6" in the gym and was laughing about people getting shut down on a 5.10a off width I'm working on on Mt. Woodson here in Ca and he saw the v rating laughed and said, " I can do that no problem it's just a v2+." Long story short I'm talking him to do his v2+. Just wanted to here some other opinions on it.

If he can do a V6 outdoor with less than 2 hours of work than the 10a shouldn't be a problem for him (really most any style). However I have done dozens of V5s outdoors in all types of style and 5.11s are still something I generally will have to put work into. Boulder problems are generally something you can work on and one quick burst of memorized work can get it done. A 100ft of 5.11+ climbing takes alot more work than 10ft of V5 climbing.

To get a real feel for the difficulty of a problem you have to take the average difficulty, the length of the route, the number of no hand breaks, the difficulty to protect (i know routes re-bolted that I can no longer do due to how the bolts were moved, -4 ape index here, and will not risk a 25ft deck at the crux for a problem).

Gags he climbs v6 in a gym not outside world of a difference. And I think he'll have an issue seeing how it's not just a 5.10 crack but a burly overhanging off width. Check it out its called crucible at Mt. Woodson,

Jake Jones wrote:What's a slopper?

Justin. S wrote:Gags he climbs v6 in a gym not outside world of a difference. And I think he'll have an issue seeing how it's not just a 5.10 crack but a burly overhanging off width. Check it out its called crucible at Mt. Woodson,

ViperScale wrote:V0 sloper problem = 5.9 sloper problem V0 crack problem = 5.9 crack problem V0 jug problem = 5.9 jug problem V0 sloper problem != V0 crack problem (depending on what you are used to climbing)

this is dumb - climb what looks cool and what makes you feel good - who gives a shit about the grade or if its a V0 "crack" problem..... if it has a crack you should be stoked!

No I fully agree climbing for rating is stupid and takes the meaning out of the joy of climbing. And he'll no I'm not throwing a gym climber on a read 5.10+ off width overhang for a first lead. It's got a rap anchors to set top rope on.

No I fully agree climbing for rating is stupid and takes the meaning out of the joy of climbing. And he'll no I'm not throwing a gym climber on a read 5.10+ off width overhang for a first lead. It's got a rap anchors to set top rope on.