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The Pool Wall
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5.8 Route T 
8,9,10 S 
Bathing With Jesus S 
Bay of Pigs S 
Be Sharp S 
Bel-Loch Diner T,S 
Bell Curve A.K.A. Silent But Deadly S 
Black Planet S 
Block Party S 
Breaking the Waves S 
Butter Face S 
California Stars S 
Castro, The S 
Chip Shot / Cheap Shot S 
Dark Continent S 
Deep End, The S 
Fact Check S 
First Time Out S 
Front Nine, The T 
Gay Bay S 
Gay Rodeo S 
Grilled Cheese aka Burger S 
Groove Is In The Heart S 
Groove Tube S 
Improbability Drive S 
Keep On Keepin' On S 
Look Sharp S 
Lunch Bucket A.K.A. Romper Room S 
Lunch Bucket? (dubbed No Se) S 
Marital Diss S 
Mission Accomplished S 
New Arete AKA Entrance Exam S 
Past Tense S 
Pub Rats T,S 
Rain of Terror S 
Romnesia S 
Short One, The S 
Squeeze Job S 
Svengali S 
Swims With the Fishes S 
Taliban Tea Party T,S 
Test Drive S 
Thunder Thighs S 
Tropical Depression  S 
Viper Room S 
Ze Boom Boom Room S 

5.8 Route 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ??
Page Views: 213
Submitted By: gimpmonkey on Aug 7, 2013

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5.8 Route is better than it looks, especially afte...

Description 

This is a cool trad climb for the grade with a lot of variation. Start near big pine tree below a short, right-facing, bombay corner.

It is in your face off the ground with a #0.5 Camalot to protect in bottom of corner. Bust a move and gain cracks up to huge death block at halfway height. Move left under and around block easily avoiding it, one day it will get trundled when no one is below. Gain the large, upper, left-facing corner using micro-cams to protect. There is a stuck cam in top of crack that needs to go....

Location 

On the Upper Tier, this is the next route right of 5.9 crack and 35 feet left of Bel-Loch Diner.

Protection 

Gear to 3", extra micro and finger cams, stoppers. 2 bolt lowering anchor at top.


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By Micah Kurtz
Jun 26, 2014

Can one get by safely without the microcams?