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 ADVANCED
The Upper Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.8 Route T 
Bel-Loch Diner T,S 
Fact Check S 
Pub Rats T,S 
Romnesia S 
Taliban Tea Party T,S 

5.8 Route 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ??
Page Views: 265
Submitted By: gimpmonkey on Aug 7, 2013

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5.8 Route is better than it looks, especially afte...

Description 

This is a cool trad climb for the grade with a lot of variation. Start near big pine tree below a short, right-facing, bombay corner.

It is in your face off the ground with a #0.5 Camalot to protect in bottom of corner. Bust a move and gain cracks up to huge death block at halfway height. Move left under and around block easily avoiding it, one day it will get trundled when no one is below. Gain the large, upper, left-facing corner using micro-cams to protect. There is a stuck cam in top of crack that needs to go....

Location 

On the Upper Tier, this is the next route right of 5.9 crack and 35 feet left of Bel-Loch Diner.

Protection 

Gear to 3", extra micro and finger cams, stoppers. 2 bolt lowering anchor at top.


Comments on 5.8 Route Add Comment
Show which comments
By Micah Kurtz
Jun 26, 2014

Can one get by safely without the microcams?
By gimpmonkey
Apr 1, 2015

I would definitely want them for the upper corner.
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