|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 90'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|Submitted By:||Aerili on Aug 17, 2009|
|Comments on 5.8 Hand Crack||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Ryan Curry
Aug 28, 2009
|This is a really fun pitch. A lot of variety and continuity, it has a Joshua Tree-like feel to it. Save hands-sized gear for the anchor. Also, a #4 Camalot is nice to have near the top.|
From: Portlandia, OR
Jun 7, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route protects extremely well
Meanders to the climber's left via a system of cracks before and excellent hands finish near the top.
A #4 protects at the very end, but it's easier to simply go up and over the easy finish and set up a gear anchor. Save #2's and #3's for the anchor.
By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Feb 13, 2011
I second the Joshua Tree feel for this climb, and actually for a lot of the climbs in Woodfords. Love it!
This is a great route for the 5.8 grade, I highly recommend it. I mostly used fingers to 2" on this route. The crack often takes smaller pro because it'll pinch down in places, and it often has a small crack in the back of a larger crack in which to place. A #4 is all that is needed to protect the topout.
There was a bright orange thread through somebody left up there and I really should have cut. I didn't examine to see if somebody rapped through it (doubtful from the placement) or just forgot it. I'll remove it next time I'm up there or somebody else should because there is no reason for it.
By Tele Liz
From: Davis, CA
Jun 18, 2014
|Fun climb! Solid 5.8. There are now anchors above the 2 climbs to the right (5.7 and Cat Scratch Fever) so you can top out and rap from those. Fun climb and clean for Woodfords!|