5.8 Crack 5.8 PG13
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| Type: | Trad, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9- [details] |
| FA: | Unknown |
| Season: | year round |
| Submitted By: | George Perkins on Apr 3, 2007 |
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Unknown climber on Boy What Nice Fellows-5.9
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Description This "5.8 Crack" is listed in the guidebooks as the crack in the corner just right of Boy What Assholes..., but no one ever climbs it. That's because it's dirty, hard to protect at the crux, (which is a bulge 3/4" of the way up), has crumbly suspect rock for much of its length, because the crux is by most measures harder than its listed 5.8 grade, and because it doesn't have a fixed bolted anchor for toproping like most at the Overlook. If you're one of those people who needs to climb everything at White Rock: tie in and give this right-facing corner a run. Begin just right of Boy What Assholes..., scramble up choss, continue up easy hand crack to an overhanging bulge where the crack thins to a seam. Tenuous liebacking on crumbly rock gets you past this crux, which is easier than it looks.
There is another corner that's about 5.8 on the left end of this side of the Overlook, that isn't listed-in-the-book, but is nicer than this one. That dihedral is immediately right of Bosker Boozeroo and has a 2-bolt anchor. I wonder if the guidebook was mixed up, as a longtime White Rock climber posted a photo of a climber in this corner described here, captioned with the name "Boy What Nice Fellows" 5.9, a climb that the new guide rates otherwise and puts in a different place. Not that it's a big deal, because basically all the cracks at the Overlook are in the 5.8 to 5.10-, so you can't get sandbagged too badly.
Location The obvious, fairly dirty crack right of Boy What Assholes.... Shown as route number 4 on the Overlook route topo photo.
Protection Rack from RPs to 3". No bolted anchor. Consider stepping left to the Boy What Assholes anchor at the top.
By Chris Wenker
From: Santa Fe
Jan 28, 2011
rating: 5.9 PG13
| Kinda a scary, sandbagged lead through that crumbly crux, what with the best pro several feet below your heels and a not-good landing zone. Maybe some tricams would have taken the spice out of the crux bulge, but then you'd lose the use of some critical sidepull pockets. But, I was warned.
GP: "the crux is by most measures harder than its listed 5.8 grade", versus "this crux, which is easier than it looks".
So, which is it? ;)
I vote: harder! ...or, both? I guess they're not mutually exclusive statements. |
By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jan 28, 2011
| I didn't try to sell anyone on this climb.
I guess I meant: it has the feel of a climb harder than 5.8, and the pro at the crux is below you, small, or weird. Maybe it's the gear or the crumbly rock, but the crux section looks improbable and you stare at it for a while, then you actually commit to it, and it's not too bad. Just my impression. I'd say it's harder than Headwall Right Crack, or Cholla Crack, but easier than Holy Crack.
Was the stopper I retrieved from this crack last weekend yours? My partner has it. We can get it back to you if it's yours. |
By Chris Wenker
From: Santa Fe
Jan 28, 2011
rating: 5.9 PG13
| Not my stopper.
I imagine this route is good practice for the Black. |
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