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 ADVANCED
South/East side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.8 Crack T 
Bosker Boozeroo S 
Box Overhang Left T,TR 
Box Overhang Right T,TR 
Boy What Assholes (You Guys Turned Out to Be) S 
Boy What Nice Fellows T 
Captain Smarmbag T,TR 
Cholla Crack T,TR 
Cholla Wall T,TR 
Dave's Face (a.k.a. Sale at Mervyn's) S,TR 
Donde Estan Mis Pantalones S,TR 
Double Vision / Ream Dream S,TR 
Face Off S,TR 
Headwall Crack Left T,TR 
Headwall Crack Right T,TR 
Holy Crack T,TR 
Holy Wall S,TR 
Len's Roof T,TR 
M.C. Epic T,TR 
Narcissistic Dream T,TR 
Nice Guys Finish Last S 
No Exit S,TR 
On Beyond Zebra S,TR 
Overture TR 
Paul's Boutique S 
Polly's Crack T,TR 
RDD Crack T,TR 
Route 21 T,TR 
Sensuous S T,TR 
Squeeze Chimney T 
Thief in Time S,TR 
Thorazine Dream S,TR 
Unknown T,TR 
Way Beyond Zebra S,TR 
Wildcat S 

5.8 Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: year round
Page Views: 1,700
Submitted By: George Perkins on Apr 3, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Unknown climber on Boy What Nice Fellows-5.9

Description 

This "5.8 Crack" is listed in the guidebooks as the crack in the corner just right of Boy What Assholes..., but no one ever climbs it. That's because it's dirty, hard to protect at the crux, (which is a bulge 3/4" of the way up), has crumbly suspect rock for much of its length, because the crux is by most measures harder than its listed 5.8 grade, and because it doesn't have a fixed bolted anchor for toproping like most at the Overlook. If you're one of those people who needs to climb everything at White Rock: tie in and give this right-facing corner a run. Begin just right of Boy What Assholes..., scramble up choss, continue up easy hand crack to an overhanging bulge where the crack thins to a seam. Tenuous liebacking on crumbly rock gets you past this crux, which is easier than it looks.


Location 

The obvious, fairly dirty crack right of Boy What Assholes.... Shown as route number 4 on the Overlook route topo photo.


Protection 

Rack from RPs to 3". No bolted anchor. Consider stepping left to the Boy What Assholes anchor at the top.



Comments on 5.8 Crack Add Comment
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By Chris Wenker
From: Santa Fe
Jan 28, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

Kinda a scary, sandbagged lead through that crumbly crux, what with the best pro several feet below your heels and a not-good landing zone. Maybe some tricams would have taken the spice out of the crux bulge, but then you'd lose the use of some critical sidepull pockets. But, I was warned.

GP: "the crux is by most measures harder than its listed 5.8 grade", versus "this crux, which is easier than it looks".
So, which is it? ;)
I vote: harder! ...or, both? I guess they're not mutually exclusive statements.

By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jan 28, 2011

I didn't try to sell anyone on this climb.

I guess I meant: it has the feel of a climb harder than 5.8, and the pro at the crux is below you, small, or weird. Maybe it's the gear or the crumbly rock, but the crux section looks improbable and you stare at it for a while, then you actually commit to it, and it's not too bad. Just my impression. I'd say it's harder than Headwall Right Crack, or Cholla Crack, but easier than Holy Crack.

Was the stopper I retrieved from this crack last weekend yours? My partner has it. We can get it back to you if it's yours.

By Chris Wenker
From: Santa Fe
Jan 28, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

Not my stopper.

I imagine this route is good practice for the Black.