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Lookout Mountain Crag
Select Route:
5.10 Crack aka "Thin Fingers" T,TR 
5.10a Face S 
5.7 Arete TR 
5.7 Dihedral T,TR 
5.7 Face TR 
5.8 Crack T,TR 
5.9 Crack aka "Into the Void" T,TR 
5.9 Face S 
Changing Corners TR 
Shake 'N' Bake T,S 

5.8 Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,939
Submitted By: Casey Bernal on Feb 13, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (67)
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Kara Chrysler cruising to the crux August 31, 2001...

Description 

This route is the obvious serrated crack on the right side of the face. Excellent jugs and jams lead to the steep crux (5.8). Short but fun climbing overall.


Protection 

Easy access to the cold shuts above the lip for a toprope. Also makes an excellent lead. Standard rack. ~45 feet



Photos of 5.8 Crack Slideshow Add Photo
L. Smith and Brewery
L. Smith and Brewery
A look at the route.
BETA PHOTO: A look at the route.
The 5.8 crack (trad).
BETA PHOTO: The 5.8 crack (trad).
Trevor Mohlenkamp on toprope, Age 8, Mother's Day 2006.
Trevor Mohlenkamp on toprope, Age 8, Mother's Day ...
Emily on 5.8 crack.
Emily on 5.8 crack.
Andy Chrysler, August 31, 2001, Photo by his lovely wife, Kara.
Andy Chrysler, August 31, 2001, Photo by his lovel...
Kevin Currigan; August 31, 2001.  Photo by Kara Chrysler
Kevin Currigan; August 31, 2001. Photo ...
Photo by Ed Mullen.  Mike at the start of the route.
Photo by Ed Mullen. Mike at the start of the rout...
Nick on his first 5.6 TR and he flashed it!
Nick on his first 5.6 TR and he flashed it!
Irina Overeem nearing the crux.
Irina Overeem nearing the crux.
Dave Kenealy on 5.8 crack.
Dave Kenealy on 5.8 crack.
Irina Overeem finishing the crux moves to the anchor.
Irina Overeem finishing the crux moves to the anch...
Kristin Knudson pauses to plug in some gear as the lights of Golden Illuminate.  Photo by James Crasta.
Kristin Knudson pauses to plug in some gear as the...
David K. above the crux on 5.8 crack Lookout Mountain Crag
David K. above the crux on 5.8 crack Lookout Mount...
The anchor.
The anchor.
Comments on 5.8 Crack Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 27, 2012
By Mike Mullen
From: Littleton
May 21, 2002

This is a great trad lead. Microcams work well to protect the crux move.

By Anonymous Coward
Aug 28, 2002

Great place to climb after work. We are just starting out, and the combination crack and face climbs from the toprope anchors are great. The whole slab is like a big playground...

By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 7, 2003
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

An excellent pitch of 5.6-5.7 crack climbing with a brief 5.8 crux at the top.

A solid clean crack climb.

Mostly 5.6 to 5.7, with a brief 5.8 crux at the top.

By Justin Peacock
From: Denver, co
May 1, 2005

My first-ever outside route many years ago... It's short and fun for a beginner. Pretty good first lead and aid practice, too.

By Lee Smith
Jul 9, 2006

It appears to me that this route is the same as the 5.6 C1 route described above. I would go with a 5.6 rating if you turn the roof on the left side. 2 stars only because it is so short. If it were longer it would be a very popular route.

By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Sep 28, 2006

[Ed.- duplicate route was submitted as "5.6 Crack" by Steve Matthys on Sep 24, 2002 with the following description]:

This route is the first route you will pass if you take the walk down to the base of the cliff. It is an obvious hand/finger crack that you can top rope or lead on trad. Great trad lead for beginners.

Small to midsize cams & Stoppers. For TR, some webbing and locking biners.

By percious
From: Bear Creek, CO
Nov 1, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This climb could be climbed all passive.

By Phil Persson
From: Denver, Colorado
Oct 7, 2008

Short, but very fun trad lead. Great Aid practice too! Planning on sharpening my aid skills on this route and the nearby cracks in preparation for the Finger of Fate on the Titan in a few weeks... :) :)

By Andrew Bradberry
From: Golden, CO
Oct 16, 2010

Such a fun lead! Every time I get on this I'm surprised at how much fun I have. The crack is super clean and eats up stoppers. Finish with that fun finger lock at the last move!

By J P
From: Denver, CO
Aug 29, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Definitely agree that this is a good place to bring passive pro.

Some opportunities to place small cams too.

By Eben Daggett
From: Boulder, CO
May 29, 2012

Climbed today! A ton of fun. We felt that "5.8 Crack" was a little boring and preferred calling it "Jasper's Ass Crack". Big fun!

By mlauwers
Jun 10, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Climbed this today - there's a handsized hold at the very top that is very loose and was detriment to finishing the route as it was before. Had the move left and use something else in order to finish. Be careful on that loose rock, could be quite dangerous for those below.

By Scott McMahon
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 2, 2012

There is also a second loose rock on the top 1/3 of the pitch. It's about a book-sized chockstone in the main crack, just before the roof. Mostly still solid, but it does shift and will get worse with more use as a hand and foothold.

FYI, the broken hold at the top makes the top out much harder and more difficult to protect. New leaders can escape to the right if necessary.

By Walt Barker
From: AZ
Jul 29, 2012

Gear galore; micros and stoppers. "Book-sized rock" shifted a bit. Top definitely in the 5.8 range.

By Addison
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 1, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Foot jams are so consistent you can climb this without your hands. Also not an .8. Would be 3 stars if it was longer.

By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
Nov 27, 2012
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

There is only one 5.8 move on this climb, but it really is fun!