5.8 Chimney - "Choss Garden"
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BETA PHOTO: We slung that large, rotten boulder for our belay ...
This route is at 30 degrees North by compass bearing. The route is on the northeast corner of the rock, a low angle chimney. Pitch 1 (5.8) is 160. Climb mossy cracks (reasonable protection) for 60 and then enter the main chimney. A cam (#3 Camalot) in questionable rock protects 15 feet of crux chimneying, up to a chockstone and good protection. Pass a second, larger chockstone on the left and scramble 30 feet up a very low angle chimney to a belay. Unrope and walk back (south) through a corridor, turn left and tunnel 30 to the eastern edge of the rock. Turn right and scramble (Class 4) up to a plateau where you can see the north and south summit blocks, and belay (long sling around a big knob). For the final pitch (5.6 X, 60 long), climb down to the notch, step across and mantle onto a large, loose flake. Carefully climb up over more loose flakes to the summit area.
This route starts off as a crack climb, then transitions to a reclining chimney about 75' up. This inset area is on the highest shoulder of the rock.
#1-#4 cams are best. The rock is of very poor quality - nuts and hexes will likely blow out in several placements. Carefully consider placements in the choss. We brought doubles from #1-#4 cams and several runners. The summit itself has an ANCIENT fixed pin (which unfortnately I failed to get a picture of). Not sure what it was used for. We installed 2 new bolts, slings, and a rap ring on the east face at a bearing of about 45 degrees north. A very exposed 4th class descending traverse is required to reach the anchor. Ropes were pulled easily from our new anchor. I'd recommend lowering/belaying from the summit area (good cracks on the summit) to the anchor. The rappel is 160' long.
NOTE: If that hanging flake slides off, which it will sooner or later, I don't know how you'd get up there. As it is, the last 70' pitch is a 5.6 free solo on the rotten flakes, scallops, and a few crystals.
BETA PHOTO: The start of the route. The climbing here is 5.7i...
Derrill on the rotten flake. This flake won't be ...
When you pop out of the tunnel, you are greeted wi...
The rappel requires 2-60m ropes. One small 30' se...
BETA PHOTO: Looking north to the reservoir from the route.
Nearing the base of the rock.
BETA PHOTO: Squeeze chimney between the huge summit boulders b...
Looking down the chimney to the ground.
BETA PHOTO: Freshly installed.
BETA PHOTO: This is what's left of the most substantial flake ...