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 ADVANCED
Lookout Mountain Crag
Select Route:
5.10 Crack aka "Thin Fingers" T,TR 
5.10a Face S 
5.7 Arete TR 
5.7 Dihedral T,TR 
5.7 Face TR 
5.8 Crack T,TR 
5.9 Crack aka "Into the Void" T,TR 
5.9 Face S 
Changing Corners TR 
Shake 'N' Bake T,S 

5.7 Dihedral 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,305
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Jan 25, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (47)
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Irina Overeem laybacking up the corner.

Description 

This route is on the left side of the crag in an obvious dihedral. The climbing is very good, and I would give it three stars except it is lacking length and location. It starts on the slab and works its way up the dihedral to a weird chimney thing. This is the short but awkward crux. You can traverse diagonally left across a bulge after this to the bolts, but it is much better to continue up the dihedral to the fist crack under the roof and traverse left.

This is a great route with excellent rock and fun climbing.

Protection 

It can be climbed on toprope, but a solid directional is needed if you use the bolts near the top. Some jackass put these bolts in, so be sure to loop a runner through one or else you will edge load the carabiner. There is plenty of places to set up a gear toprope. This is best done as a trad lead. The bottom section eats up nuts, and there are a couple large cam placements (3.5 or 4) near the top. Standard rack. ~60 feet?


Photos of 5.7 Dihedral Slideshow Add Photo
The route follows the corner to the top.
BETA PHOTO: The route follows the corner to the top.
The top of the dihedral.
The top of the dihedral.
Peter Dillon, enjoying the nice face holds left of...
Peter Dillon, enjoying the nice face holds left of...
Kristin Knudson, onsight.  Her first trad lead.  P...
Kristin Knudson, onsight. Her first trad lead. P...
Rob works the Dihedral while Sharon starts the roo...
Rob works the Dihedral while Sharon starts the roo...
The Dihedral.
The Dihedral.

Comments on 5.7 Dihedral Add Comment
Show which comments
By Casey Bernal
From: Arvada, CO
Feb 13, 2002
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I forgot to mention that there is one bolt in an alcove near the top. This can be used to get to the bolt anchor below. Otherwise it is a sketchy downclimb to them.
By ClimbandMine
Feb 13, 2002

Who's the moron that put bolts in on this route??? This was probably my fourth or fifth trad lead, in my first year of climbing (early 1997). I later went back and did it as a naked nighttime (partially drunk) free solo. This is what happens when you get bored during the week as a student at Mines, I guess. Why, oh, why did I come back for grad school?
By Matt White
Feb 28, 2002

I have it on good authority that anyone bringing a bolt kit to this crag will be hit struck by lightning.
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 7, 2003
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

A fun route up a clean, easy corner. Felt more like 5.6 than 5.7.

A fun route on solid rock.

Lots of holds on the face left of the corner keep the climbing moderate.
By Jeremy Hakes
From: Golden, Colorado
Oct 30, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Someone replaced the anchors! Yay! New TR anchors in place.
By Stich
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Sep 2, 2007

The super secret way to get through the crux squeeze is to find the handhold for your left hand on the left face and move to the left onto the slab, thusly avoiding the squeeze altogether.
By Phil Persson
From: Denver, Colorado
Oct 7, 2008

Fun! I love this crag! 30 second approach, usually empty, great Trad in addition to TR's and Sport routes... there's something here for everyone.
By Walt Barker
From: Reno NV
Aug 11, 2012

Awesome climb, bizarre crux. Plugged #4 and # 3 Camalots into the fist crack for the traverse to the chains. For the chains, just bring about 15' of webbing and you can equalize the anchor just fine.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Nov 27, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

You can equalize the anchor with much less than 15' of webbing as mentioned in the comment above.
By ChefMattThaner
From: Lakewood, co
May 5, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Squeezing through that chimney with a couple big cams on the harness was not the easiest. Also I would recommend using the slightly lower and slightly to the left anchors and using a #4 or even a #1 C4 in the under cling as a directional if top roping this. The anchors for this route are terrible for top roping.