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Just say no to crack, especially if it's wide.  Jared Coburn cuts right on the first pitch.

Id# 5200018,  Dimensions: 1125 x 1500 - View full size 

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By Aimee Rose
From: Bend, or
Mar 28, 2006

Oooo, how come I don't remember that wide crack? I must not have led that pitch.

By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Mar 28, 2006

It's pitch 1 (the picture was taken on the ground). You avoid the wide crack by cutting out onto the featured face just past the pod.

By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 11, 2006

It's weird how that wide section in the crack looks just like a pin scar -- from a #25 angle piton!

By BlahBlahBlah
Sep 24, 2008

The wide crack avoidance technique....love it.

By Colin Brochard
From: San Francisco
Nov 7, 2010

is that a bolt clipped right next to the crack?

By Andrew Carson
From: Wilson, WY
Oct 7, 2011

The extensive retro-bolting of CC has certainly changed the nature of the route. Earlier, a climber was more or less wedded to the crack, wide or not, if he/she wanted pro. Now... as Jorge Urioste put it, "it's a forest of bolts" up there. Having said that, it's still a wonderful climb.

By Joe Lo
Jan 13, 2013

Just say YESSS to crack!!!! especially when its wide. I went straight up that mug and it was most definitely much more stimulating than 5.8 face climbing...but i guess to each his own!

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Just say no to crack, especially if it's wide. Jared Coburn cuts right on the first pitch.

Submitted By: M.Morley on Feb 20, 2004
On this route:
Crimson Chrysalis (5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c )