5.11 Crack 

I might even go so far as to give this route 3 stars. Continuous, technical, and thought-provoking for a 9. One of the sweetest sounds I ever heard was the biner snapping shut after finally clipping the first bolt on my first lead of this route.

This climb will get you going on the importance of technique. Our instructors friend toproped this for us. A real eye opener for a new climber. I hope to get to try it again!

Stoppers and small cams work good to supplement the two bolts.

I feel this warrants a 'PG' rating, as you can choose to either protect or use fingerlocks, but not both.

Frequently the best solution to that sort of gear problem is to place gear at your waist, as you pass it. setting the smallest stopper possible allows for a remaining "pod" above that you can get your toes in without stepping on the gear.

You can't place gear everywhere on this route, but what you do get is pretty bomber and definately not runout. Listen to Tony. Placing gear at your waist is a good, efficient technique anyway. Besides, you're in Vedauwoo. R, X, S, VS...it needs to be pretty damn bad to get any of these letters here.

The good advice in the previous two comments notwithstanding, I would not recommend this as a lead for someone who is not solid at the grade. NOT a good "first 5.9 lead".

Place a directional at the base. There is a bomber small stopper placements before the bolt. Without a directional, a fall could potentially pull the stopper (depending on where your belayer is). I know of a climber that died falling backwards before reaching the first bolt. I don't know if his pro pulled or if he didn't place anything before the bolt.

I pretty sure the guy who died on this route fell before reaching the first bolt. I think he had a nut in, but pulled it on the way down which flipped him upside down, sending him head first into the rocks below. In any case I'm almost positive he hit head first, and thats what killed him.

This climb looks easier than it is. I agree with the gear comments - bring lots of small wires and place them after you've used the thin jams. Footholds are getting a little slippery.

Thought provoking is definitely the way to describe this really good route. The amount of concentration used makes this feel longer than it is. Put your trust in the micros and send!!!

While not the crux, the difficulties do not end after the 2nd bolt, so don't let your guard down. Very sustained, even if not terribly demanding physically. This is a great route, and worthwhile if you can keep it together on 5.9 face climbs. I didn't place any nuts larger than a #3 Rock, as the larger pin scars would not take good nuts. A #5 or 6 Stopper will fit in one or two spots right next to the second bolt, but you'll be hurting if that's the smallest you brought.

This is an excellent route, though oddly named. The crack takes small cams and nuts well, but it is easy to runout and a fall would be a problem. It gets pretty strenuous at the top. Offers a little of everything: friction, crack, bolts and pro placement. HIghly recommended if you are a working your way to a solid 5.9 lead.

So far as I know, this route was named "5.11 Crack" because that was the expected grade before its first free ascent. That it was much easier than that was simply an unforeseen occurrence.

If you fall before the first bolt, you may be flipped upside down if your nut fails. The sign out by the campground that says "climbing is dangerous, etc" was placed their after somebody cracked open their skull and died when their nut failure caused them to flip. Wear a helmet on this beast, set your nuts well, or plan not to fall.

In order to do this climb in a reasonably safe manner, skill in placing small wired stoppers is essential. There is a decent crack that can be slotted with a small stopper after getting a high left foot smeared on the slab just above start. Better be solid at "old style 5.9;" this is not a trivial lead or suitable for a first 5.9 lead. A fatality occurred here.

Just a bit of FA "beta:" First ascent was by Mike Parker in 1968.

I found small Metolius offset cams to be useful on this climb.

big puddle of blood under this today... Everyone OK?