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Lookout Mountain Crag
Select Route:
5.10 Crack aka "Thin Fingers" T,TR 
5.10a Face S 
5.7 Arete TR 
5.7 Dihedral T,TR 
5.7 Face TR 
5.8 Crack T,TR 
5.9 Crack aka "Into the Void" T,TR 
5.9 Face S 
Changing Corners TR 
Shake 'N' Bake T,S 

5.10a Face 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,482
Submitted By: Darrin Stein on Aug 8, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (30)
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BETA PHOTO: The 5.10 face route (sport).


At the base of the crag, this is the sport route on the left side. Like the other sport line, the first bolt is high up, but the climbing only about 5.6 to get to it. Progressivly harder moves as you get closer to the roof, but all are positive. Solid holds on the roof with a big step to get over it.


Five draws will do it.

Eds. there may be missing hangers.

Photos of 5.10a Face Slideshow Add Photo
Emily on roof.
Emily on roof.
Peter Dillon tackling the crux roof.
Peter Dillon tackling the crux roof.
Frank at Crux
Frank at Crux
Peter Dillon climbing the thin face below the roof...
Peter Dillon climbing the thin face below the roof...
Emily climbing the face.
Emily climbing the face.

Comments on 5.10a Face Add Comment
Show which comments
By Brian Tessier
From: Lakehood, Colorado
Aug 12, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Gear Alert
If anyone has climbed at lookout mtn crag then they know that the cold shut anchors are poorly placed and getting worn out. So my question is about the 10a climb on the left. Would anyone be offended if I were to replace this anchor? I would be more than happy to upgrade this to 2-3/8"x 3.5"x 6 pc. bolts, fixe hangers and chain (camo. of course).The next question is it O.K. to raise this anchor up ? The existing anchor (5' down from the top) seems to be too low to be able to SAFELY rig from the top of the crag. 36"-42" straight up from these 2 cold shuts would be the location of the new anchor(approx 12"-16"dn from the top).This new anchor would be much easier to reach from the top. I'm curious as to how people feel about this situation. All I'm trying to do here is to make this a little SAFER for everyone to rig. Thank-youBrian T.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 12, 2004

you can safely rig a TR with gear from the top. consider what you would be doing to the route as a LEAD CLIMB if you moved the anchors...
By Brian Tessier
From: Lakehood, Colorado
Aug 12, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Darren has brought up a good point. I have considered the lead climbing aspect of this route and the only logical thing to do is to leave 1 of the 2 anchor bolts where they are and clip it on the way up. The climbing at that point is pretty easy, maybe 5.4. It just seems to me that the person who put this anchor in originally didn't put a lot of thought into the placements of the bolts. I'm in no way the bolt police but just another climber who enjoys climbing there. I have seen some ugly/scary shit with people trying to set up a TR on the route, and would hate to see someone get killed. That's all.

Thanx for the response!Brian Tessier
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 16, 2004

I don't want to sound like a snob but there are tons of great top ropes on Table Mtn. The Lookout crag is a tiny local spot with some great history and I would like to see some of the "adventure" remain in climbing this area. I too would hate to see anyone hurt or killed but this climb is safe as a lead climb. I think the route (as well as the whole crag) would lose some of it's charm if it was TR'ed all the time.

By percious
From: Bear Creek, CO
Nov 1, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

There are 4 bolts and 1 cold shut. Nice roof. The moves up to the first bolt are more like 5.8 or 5.9. The crack on the right takes a blue TCU.
By Ralph Kolva
From: Evergreen, CO
Jun 12, 2010

I forgot to note which bolt, but the nut on one of the upper bolts is only finger tight. Don't know when I'll get back to this crag, but when I do I'll take a wrench and tighten it. Just a heads up if you happen to lead this route.
By Michael Slater
From: Denver
Jul 5, 2011

WARNING, on this face there were two loose bolts. I think they were the second and fourth. The climber was able to finger tighten them and continue (not recommended). We didnít have a wrench, so please consider bringing one if you are headed up shortly.
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