5.10a Face 5.10a
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BETA PHOTO: The 5.10 face route (sport).
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Description At the base of the crag, this is the sport route on the left side. Like the other sport line, the first bolt is high up, but the climbing only about 5.6 to get to it. Progressivly harder moves as you get closer to the roof, but all are positive. Solid holds on the roof with a big step to get over it.
Protection Five draws will do it.
Peter Dillon tackling the crux roof.
| Peter Dillon climbing the thin face below the roof...
| Frank at Crux
| Emily on roof.
| Emily climbing the face.
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By Brian Tessier From: Lakehood, Colorado Aug 12, 2004 rating: 5.10a
Gear Alert
| If anyone has climbed at lookout mtn crag then they know that the cold shut anchors are poorly placed and getting worn out. So my question is about the 10a climb on the left. Would anyone be offended if I were to replace this anchor? I would be more than happy to upgrade this to 2-3/8"x 3.5"x 6 pc. bolts, fixe hangers and chain (camo. of course).The next question is it O.K. to raise this anchor up ? The existing anchor (5' down from the top) seems to be too low to be able to SAFELY rig from the top of the crag. 36"-42" straight up from these 2 cold shuts would be the location of the new anchor(approx 12"-16"dn from the top).This new anchor would be much easier to reach from the top. I'm curious as to how people feel about this situation. All I'm trying to do here is to make this a little SAFER for everyone to rig. Thank-youBrian T. |
By Darren Mabe From: Flagstaff, AZ Aug 12, 2004
| you can safely rig a TR with gear from the top. consider what you would be doing to the route as a LEAD CLIMB if you moved the anchors... |
By Brian Tessier From: Lakehood, Colorado Aug 12, 2004 rating: 5.10a
| Darren has brought up a good point. I have considered the lead climbing aspect of this route and the only logical thing to do is to leave 1 of the 2 anchor bolts where they are and clip it on the way up. The climbing at that point is pretty easy, maybe 5.4. It just seems to me that the person who put this anchor in originally didn't put a lot of thought into the placements of the bolts. I'm in no way the bolt police but just another climber who enjoys climbing there. I have seen some ugly/scary shit with people trying to set up a TR on the route, and would hate to see someone get killed. That's all. Thanx for the response!Brian Tessier |
By Anonymous Coward Oct 16, 2004
| I don't want to sound like a snob but there are tons of great top ropes on Table Mtn. The Lookout crag is a tiny local spot with some great history and I would like to see some of the "adventure" remain in climbing this area. I too would hate to see anyone hurt or killed but this climb is safe as a lead climb. I think the route (as well as the whole crag) would lose some of it's charm if it was TR'ed all the time. Jay |
By percious From: Bear Creek, CO Nov 1, 2007 rating: 5.10a
| There are 4 bolts and 1 cold shut. Nice roof. The moves up to the first bolt are more like 5.8 or 5.9. The crack on the right takes a blue TCU. |
By Ralph Kolva From: Evergreen, CO Jun 12, 2010
| I forgot to note which bolt, but the nut on one of the upper bolts is only finger tight. Don't know when I'll get back to this crag, but when I do I'll take a wrench and tighten it. Just a heads up if you happen to lead this route. |
By Michael Slater From: Denver Jul 5, 2011
| WARNING, on this face there were two loose bolts. I think they were the second and fourth. The climber was able to finger tighten them and continue (not recommended). We didn’t have a wrench, so please consider bringing one if you are headed up shortly. |
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