5.10 Roof (aka. Deviance)
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BETA PHOTO: 5.10 Roof!
Climb up a chossy block to a large ledge. Clipping the first bolt requires a long reach, a stick clip, or a solid mental game. Climb the slab clipping two more bolts along the way (bring a long draw or sling for the 3rd bolt or face horrendous drag once you move out onto the roof). Traverse right onto the roof, clip a bolt, fire through the roof on big holds while clipping another bolt and then clip the chains!
Anchors have no hangers, just bolts through chains and they seem somewhat old and suspect.
Left of the main area of Zoe's Wall, accessed by taking the Zoe trail off the main trail, but going left instead of right at the fork.
5 bolts, 2 chain anchors.
By Russell Bangert
Sep 30, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
This route is a 10d, not a 10a
Mar 21, 2014
This route is considered on to be located on the Sunshine Roof Wall in John Hogge's Austin Climbing Guide book.