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5.10 Head 
Dad Loves Jazz 
Dedicated to Blitzo 2 
Easy Listening 
Ladder 1 
Ladder 2 
Lynn's Route 
Moonlight Cocktail 
Remind Me To Murder You Later (mistakenly called James' Route) 
Straight - No Chaser 
Strat, The 
Sweet Little Hollywood Flake 

5.10 Head 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
Page Views: 259
Submitted By: James on Nov 24, 2010
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Follow five bolts to a bolted anchor. The first crux comes below the first bolt. Like the route to the left, if leading you will enter groundfall territory going to the second bolt. The second crux comes between bolts three and four. After the fifth, there is no more pro, but the climbing eases considerably to the anchor.


This is the next bolted line right of Dad Loves Jazz (fourth bolted route from the left). The first bolt is maybe 12 feet off the ground.

The easiest descent is a two rope rap. To walkoff, scramble approximately 15 feet left of the anchor, then right up an easy ramp. From here, one then negotiates a gravel slope to an easy ledge above the right hand routes, and hike down where possible.


5 bolts.

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