5.10 Anasazi Lace-up shoe....... Opinions?

Anybody use them? Opinions? Sizing?

My favorite all-around shoe. They are great for everything except thin cracks, and once they are fully broken-in, they smear well.

For a synthetic, lined shoe, they stretch a lot during break-in. I wear them in my street-shoe size. After breaking them in, they are comfy enough to wear for several hours, but still edge well. If you plan to use them as a performance edging shoe, and will only be wearing them for short periods of time, size down 1/2 to 1 full size from your street shoe.

I still like Mocs for thin cracks, and Dragons for anything overhanging, but the lace-ups do great by themselves as an all-arounder.

Be aware there are two models Blanco and Verde (both are "anasazi lace-up shoes"). Blanco has more rand tension and C4, Verde less tension and Onyxx.

I wear half size down from street (really about 1/4 size since I'm exactly between 9.5 and 10 on a brannock device, and use 9.5s) For reference, I wear 9.5 in anasazi lace, 9.0 moccasyms for cracks, 9.0 velcro anasazi.

These are my primary thin face climbing shoe, in both verde and blanco, and I still have at least one pair of the old pinks in service. IME the verdes stretch a bit in the toebox, moreso than the pinks did or the blancos do.

If the last fits your foot, these are techno thin route killers. And I disagree Zin saying they're not good for thin cracks...I guess it depends on what you mean by "thin". For anything down to about 1 1/8", I'll still be in slippers, but once you get to rattly fingers and fingers, I go to the thin face shoes since you're mostly edging off the side of the crack in lieback positions, and/or using tiny face edges.

These are an indispensable part of my shoe quiver. I'm probably in the Verdes, velcros, and mocs an equal 1/3 of the time and break out the blancos or old pinks for at my limit thin edging.

I have gone through pretty much every version of the anasazi (moc, velcro, lace, verde(current), galileo) and love them all. The verde seem to me to be the best all around shoes out of the bunch working well to smear, edge as well as crack climb. I just spend a week in the Creek and was glad I had them. I wear them in a full size smaller than street show (9.5 verde, 10.5 street). They did stretch quite a bit. They are a little tight for longer routes, 6+ pitches as my feet swell a lot. They are a great show and would recommend them to anyone that fits into the last.

I have the Anasazi Verde and it really is a great shoe. I went down 1/2 size and the thing fits like a glove. The heel keeps myfoot snuggly in position and my toes always feel like the are right on the edge.

My feet are pretty wide but my heel is slim(ish). My toes are definately bunched up in the front but its not painful. I think these are great all around shoes, but I wouldnt really want to use them for Multi-pitch trad. For me, the agressive heel (though not as agressive as the blancos) begins to feel like its digging in after wearing it for more than a half hour.

I have two pairs of Verde's in 43 and one pair in 44. I also have a pair of the VCS in 44. They are my all around go to shoe. The larger ones are still pretty tight for pure crack or pure friction slab, but if the route is varied I'm usually fine for a few hours before I need a break.

I've been using Acopa Merlins for all day routes lately just because I can wear them for 8 hours at a time. They don't edge as well as the Anasazis but maybe because they are soft and not as tight.

And I've been using the Evolve Pontas for limestone sport. They are a tad pointier than the Anasazi and fit into pockets better. Also a bit more aggressive for really steep stuff.

But I've done just about every kind of climbing I can think of in my Anasazis and they rock.

Thanks for the great info!!!

Best slab shoes I've ever owned, both on granite and limestone. I've done many many pitches in them and all I can say is if they fit buy them. Plus the green color is cool.

Necro Bump:
I'm comparing the Galileos, Verdes, and Blancos for thin edging vertical to slightly overhung routes. Any opinions? The shoe would only be used for this purpose, I don't need another all-rounder

is sizing pretty similar to VCSs?

Seth Kane wrote:I went a half size down for an all day fit. I'd probably go a full size for performance.

2 sizes down from street shoe for VCS? dang! that just seems painful.
EDIT:I'm 12 on the devices at the store and 11.5 VCS/blancos works really well for even the thinnest of faces (for example I climbed Holey Moley on mount Lemmon AZ). And while I wouldn't embark on a pure crack climb with my blancos, they still can get the occasional jam in if i have to.

I think I'm more 10 than 10.5. I also fill out the heel really well in five tens so I think that contributes to being able to comfortably drop sizes

The Blancos are noticeably stiffer than the new pink. When they made the swap (i.e. ended the blanco/verde and replaced with the pink), I went to the warehouse and grabbed 3 pair of blancos for slab/thin edging, because the pink is in no way a substitute for the blanco. The pink is just too soft for sustained, difficult thin edging/slab (at least for my feet, maybe others have stronger feet).

The fit in either of them is essentially the same as the VCS, but the blanco will have significantly more rand tension IME, and so will feel tighter at the achilles and in the toebox.

The new pinks sizing is equivalent to any other anasazi lasted shoe, where a half to full size down from street should be about right for most people's needs.