|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, 150'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]|
|FA:||P1: Hans and Bonnie, 1949. P2 var: Chris Moratz, 2000|
|Submitted By:||JSH on Oct 5, 2009|
|Comments on 50-50||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
Oct 5, 2009
|The latest book lists this as G/PG - I felt it was on the more-serious side of PG, and would not put a newer leader on it. The crux involves several slabby face moves, a good couple of feet above and to the side of gear.|
By Doctor Hemlock
May 23, 2010
PG gear in places, but still easily protected. The crux on pitch 1 is a committing move for the new leader with smeary/stemming feet to get up and over the small overhang. BUT lots of good smaller pro can be placed under the flake just before the crux, and it's a beautiful move that gives the 5.5 leader a good challenge that is safely protected. Keep moving and don't hang out on the crux.
Note: At P1 crux, even though it seems easier to move right around the small overhang further out onto the face, you will find fewer holds and create potential for swinging fall. You can safely go directly up the overhang or only slightly right of it - the holds are all there, and you won't see them until you make the move above the small hang. So reach up, find your feet and GO FOR IT!
Second pitch is equally interesting with good gear - from belay ledge, facing the rock, start a little left behind the big pine tree with the rap rings and it's more committing off belay ledge, but easily to protect and fun. Good "teaching" route for the new leaders. Watch the large loose block on the second pitch.
By Barrett Stetson
Sep 16, 2012
|First half of P1 was fun, and I didn't think the gear was too bad if you had small cams, but then it just turned into ledges with pine needles and rock with a little bit of green lichen with less interesting climbing. I think I ended up off route on P2, going through a bunch of spiderwebs and dirtiness. At one point I looked down an saw where I was probably supposed to go but didn't want to down climb. If you go about 50 ft to climbers right you can find the Ursula rap.|