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 ADVANCED
North Fin
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5 O'Clock Shadow S 
Agatha Christie (Direct) T,TR 
Air Monsters S 
Billionaire Boys Club T 
Close Shave T 
Edge of Da-light, The T 
Genevive S 
Get Low 
Gladiator T 
Hai Karate T,TR 
Histoplasmosis T 
Killer Whale S,TR 
Nang S 
Noodler S 
Rocket Science S 
Skin Bracer T 
Slippery When Wet T 
Thumbs Up S 
Tree Monsters S 
Writer's Cramp T 

5 O'Clock Shadow 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Eric Fazio-Rhicard, Erik Murdock, Jim Scott
Page Views: 1,712
Submitted By: Luke Bertelsen on Apr 8, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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Andrew and Todd pulling the same move.

Description 

This route is sustained. Very fun edge climbing with some interesting movement. Holds tax your fingertips a little but well worth climbing.


Location 

Walking down the gully into North Fin you will pass "Air Monsters", and three anchors before you see a large fin protrusion. "5 O'clock Shadow climb the face left of this and goes over it near the top.


Protection 

6 bolts to chain anchors.



Photos of 5 O'Clock Shadow Slideshow Add Photo
Chelsea Cook cranking on the crimps
Chelsea Cook cranking on the crimps
Chrissy fighting hard against the 5 O'Clock Shadow. Photo by Chris Novellino.
Chrissy fighting hard against the 5 O'Clock Shadow...
Comments on 5 O'Clock Shadow Add Comment
Show which comments
By Scott Tucker
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 18, 2007
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

The nuts on the chain anchors of this climb were very loose when we were there today. As in, at-the-end-of-the-bolt loose. Five-full-turns-to-tighten loose. No one around had a wrench so they are only hand tight. Which leads to a question: what size wrench do standard bolts and anchors use, so I can start carrying one in my pack?

By jbak
Mar 18, 2007

A pretty good wrench is a 9/16 : 1/2 inch offset box wrench. The 9/16 end will fit most bolts used on Lemmon. You can tie some webbing through the 1/2 inch side so that the wrench can be clipped to your harness. The offset will keep your knuckles from getting scratched up too much. I use a Craftsman 44317.

A tube of loctite is good too. The red loctite is good but seems to dry out in the tube faster than the blue. Don't put all your muscle into tightening. Good and snug with some loctite is good enough. Over-torqueing is bad.

By joshf
From: missoula, mt
Oct 25, 2007
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

great route, nice thin moves on slightly overhung face. best rock on north fin. enjoy the oak tree if you whip off higher up and try to remember the first thirty feet when you get to the slab ledge ending

By Shawn Heath
Administrator
From: Forchheim, Germany
Jan 6, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

My first route at Mt. Lemmon. Cool moves get you working your feet in a new way. The impalement potential is a definite deterrent, though. Use caution around that tree because my partner almost hit it when falling from the fourth bolt.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Jan 8, 2012

I once SAW a way to SAWlve that problem. Have at it.

By jim whitney
Oct 6, 2012

I usually go the other way and think some climbs are harder than their rating. This one, however, seems much easier than .10+. Real fun. Never really very sketchy at clips. I started to get a burn at maybe the third.