5 O'Clock Shadow
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Chelsea Cook cranking on the crimps
This route is sustained. Very fun edge climbing with some interesting movement. Holds tax your fingertips a little but well worth climbing.
Walking down the gully into North Fin you will pass "Air Monsters", and three anchors before you see a large fin protrusion. "5 O'clock Shadow climb the face left of this and goes over it near the top.
6 bolts to chain anchors.
Andrew and Todd pulling the same move.
Chrissy fighting hard against the 5 O'Clock Shadow...
|Comments on 5 O'Clock Shadow
|By Scott Tucker|
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 18, 2007
The nuts on the chain anchors of this climb were very loose when we were there today. As in, at-the-end-of-the-bolt loose. Five-full-turns-to-tighten loose. No one around had a wrench so they are only hand tight. Which leads to a question: what size wrench do standard bolts and anchors use, so I can start carrying one in my pack?
Mar 18, 2007
A pretty good wrench is a 9/16 : 1/2 inch offset box wrench. The 9/16 end will fit most bolts used on Lemmon. You can tie some webbing through the 1/2 inch side so that the wrench can be clipped to your harness. The offset will keep your knuckles from getting scratched up too much. I use a Craftsman 44317.
A tube of loctite is good too. The red loctite is good but seems to dry out in the tube faster than the blue. Don't put all your muscle into tightening. Good and snug with some loctite is good enough. Over-torqueing is bad.
From: missoula, mt
Oct 25, 2007
great route, nice thin moves on slightly overhung face. best rock on north fin. enjoy the oak tree if you whip off higher up and try to remember the first thirty feet when you get to the slab ledge ending
From: Erlangen, Germany
Jan 6, 2012
My first route at Mt. Lemmon. Cool moves get you working your feet in a new way. The impalement potential is a definite deterrent, though. Use caution around that tree because my partner almost hit it when falling from the fourth bolt.
|By 1Eric Rhicard|
Jan 8, 2012
I once SAW a way to SAWlve that problem. Have at it.
|By jim whitney|
Oct 6, 2012
I usually go the other way and think some climbs are harder than their rating. This one, however, seems much easier than .10+. Real fun. Never really very sketchy at clips. I started to get a burn at maybe the third.