(5) Cryptic Friction
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1. Climb crack to a small ledge and belay. (5.8 170 ft.)
2. Continue up crack a short ways until you can diagonal left out of original crack along a flake/crack to main corner with a tricky exit move. Up easier ground to belay at the left end of large, jungle ledge. (5.8+ 160 ft.)
Shift belay right, thru jungle to base of flake system and chimney.
3. A tricky boulder move gains a long flake system that is to the left of the main chimney. At its top, diagonal right to another shorter flake/crack and belay on a small ledge under a shallow roof. (5.8+ 130 ft.)
4. Undercling right and turn corner, continuing along easier ground to the top. (5.9 180 ft.)
(Pitch 3 and 4 variation: Climb chimney. 5.7 FA JFx, Susan Brownell, JMw)
Descent: Head back and left down steep descent gully as for ”J- Cubed,” or walk to far right end of the wall and rap “Bombs Away”.
At the middle of the wall is a huge block that rests on the main wall. This route starts in a long crack that is to the right and behind this block. The last 2 pitches finish just left of a long, obvious orange stain that is clearly visible from the trail. 4th class up to a small nook with a tree at the base of the crack.
"Standard" with doubles of cams to #3, and a #4. A #5 camalot was used but probably not necessary. Smaller tri-cams are handy.
The long exciting crack on pitch 1.
|Comments on (5) Cryptic Friction
From: Sacramento, CA
Sep 20, 2008
Looks like a pretty good route. Why only the two stars?
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 20, 2008
They're all excellent routes, in my opinion. I discovered a long while ago that I use a different set of standards than most people, so I stopped rating climbs. (Seems people like solid rock and good pro!) In posting these I couldn't continue unless I rated them so I went with "good." I'll let people make up their own minds. Definitely worth the hike out there--if you're into that kind of thing.
Nov 21, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
A big walk from Happy Valley (took us four hours to Spud Rock Springs) leads to one of the prettiest camp sites on earth, a stone throw from the cliff. A bunch of great, big routes in a very remote setting, most under 5.10. Rock quality is excellent and gear is generally good.