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West Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
411 Southwest 
A Bridge Too Far 
Astro Glide 
Avalon 
Billie Bear Cranks the Rad 
Bloodguard 
Blotter is my Spotter 
Brokedown Palace 
Burning Down the House 
Buster Cattlefield 
California Dreaming 
Carl's Face 
Carol's Crack 
Dead Point 
Deadwood Express 
Deli Express 
Digital Extraction 
Double Feature 
El Matador 
Fractal 
Harkness variation 
Heatwave 
Jerry's Kids 
La Vaca Solitaria 
Lack of Enthusiasm 
Livin' the Dream 
Man Without a Planet 
McCarthy West Face (Variant) 
McCarthy West Face/Hong 
Mr. Clean 
Mystery Express 
No Holds for Bonzo 
One Way Sunset 
Park Politics 
Scottfree 
Some Like it Hot 
Spank The Monkey 
Steal Away 
Tulgey Wood 
Up In Smoke 
Way Layed 
Wrong Way (direct start to One Way Sunset) 

411 Southwest 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Dave Rone, George Kremer: June 1991
Page Views: 153
Submitted By: Dave Rone on Jun 9, 2012
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Description 

411 Southwest starts one crack to the left of the Direct Southwest route. Start up this crack and then traverse left past a bolt to the next crack. Now use the crack, and edges and flakes on the face and arete to the left, to climb past 4 bolts (first crux). Continue up placing small gear until you reach the next bolts, passing a two-bolt anchor on the right. Climb past these bolts (second crux) and then continuous 5.10/5.11 climbing will get you to the upper anchor, a bolt and a fixed pin.

All in all the climbing is thin and sustained with few good rests. Beware of a loose flake on the left, near the top of the route.


Location 

411 Southwest is the 1st crack to the left of the Direct Southwest route. You will see the first bolt to the left of this crack.

If you brought 2 ropes, one rappel will get you to the base of the route. Otherwise, one rope rappel to the intermediate anchors, and another rappel to the base.

You must climb a 120', 5.7 crack to the top of the Southwest Buttress to access the route. This crack will require a selection of medium stoppers and medium to large TCU's for gear. There is a two-bolt anchor at the top of this pitch.


Protection 

This pitch has 9 bolts (including the intermediate anchor). It will also require small-medium stoppers, a two sets of RP's, and a two sets of C3's or the equivalent, and Friends to #2.5.



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