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Mr. Meanor Wall
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40 to Life S 
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St. Valentines Day Massacre T,S 

40 to Life 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
Page Views: 1,989
Submitted By: Scott Tucker on Jun 5, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (45)
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Neil Anderson gets ready to clip 3rd bolt


Thin moves on the lower part, crux is around the 2nd/3rd bolt. Squeezing the Lemmon says 5.9, but there was a discussion once with the consensus being more like 5.10. Fun face climb.


Leftmost route on Mr. Meanor wall.


Bolts & chains.

Photos of 40 to Life Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: 40 to Life (March 2014)
BETA PHOTO: 40 to Life (March 2014)

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By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Apr 20, 2009
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

If you're a .9 climber I'm thinking you may be at your limit on that start. Technical and committing moves to get started; afterwards might soften to the .9 range.

5 bolts to chain anchors.
By Derek Anderson
From: Tucson,AZ
Oct 25, 2009

I"m not very smart, but I know this climb is tricky
By AZ Spray
May 15, 2010

Great climb. It is a 5.9.
By NickMartel
From: Tucson, Arizona
Dec 12, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I think its 5.10. Definitely the hardest route on this wall, by quite a bit. The no-feet-smearfest, pressing up against upside-down crimpers, body tension, one finger crystal crimping, starting bulge is the crux, then it becomes a 5.8+/9 crimp-fest like the rest of the routes on this wall and eventually ledges out near the top. Its amazing when you are thankful you finally reached a 1/4" edge "jug". Sustained. An awesome route.
By Adrian Allred
From: Tucson, Arizona
Oct 8, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Feels like a stiff 5.9, don't think it's quite in the 5.10 territory
By Nick Henscheid
Feb 25, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Tricky start, fun .9 climbing after that.
By Tomily
Nov 1, 2015

This climb is super fun. I've seen people climb but it never really drew me in until today and I loved it.
By JMo
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 22, 2015
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Why not call it 5.8. Makes you seem really badass...

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