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The Motherlode
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40 OZ of Justice S 
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40 OZ of Justice 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 4,090
Submitted By: LeeAB on Oct 29, 2009

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High on 40 oz of Justice

Description 

Pull on some perpetually damp holds to get started. Then continue up steep jugs to a great rest on a shelf, try not to fall asleep. After you've recovered or get bored, which ever comes first, head up into the steep wall above. There is an early crux involving a long move off of a crimp. Better holds continue out the overhang to a good rest on another shelf. Another hard section off of the shelf leads to finger buckets up the final headwall.

This route has harder moves but better rests than BOHICA. Better than the guide book makes it out to be.


Location 

The furthest right route in the Madness Cave. Starts off of a stack of rocks on a damp jug that points left.


Protection 

Bolts to a bolted anchor.



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Trying not to fall asleep at the rest on 40 oz of Justice
Trying not to fall asleep at the rest on 40 oz of ...
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By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Oct 29, 2009

I lowered off of this with a 70m rope that had had both ends cut and was about 65 meters. I had plenty of rope left. I was told that you could lower with a 60m if you are careful, tie a knot in the end and be ready to have someone toss the climber a rope if they don't make it to the ground.

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Nov 29, 2010

60m is fine. I think this route is way under-rated. Perhaps not as good as the other Madness Cave rtes, but IMO this is the best 13a at the Lode* (*I haven't done Snooker, done all the others).

By Mike Anderson
From: Dayton, OH
Mar 21, 2011

Very good route, I think better than the beloved BOHICA even. For one thing, it goes to the top of the wall, which BOHICA does not, and it has a much longer run through the steepest part of the cave. In fact, this has to be one of the coolest 13a's anywhere.

Furthermore, the original beta was to stick clip the first bolt and winch past the wet rock, so if this route is being docked quality points because of wet rock, the criticism is misplaced.

By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
May 10, 2011

If you're supposed to winch start then it does not start at the bottom of the wall so saying that it goes to the top makes it better than BOHICA just does not make sense. Though for me really it is the amount of glue on the route that detracts, don't get me wrong it is still a great route though and I would do it again.