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"Unnamed 5.11+" in Bloom Guide 
4 x 4 
Carbondale Short Bus 
Collision Course 
Destination Paris 
Hookers 'n Blow 
Hydraulic Pump 
Jimmy's Three Inch Weenie 
Knobby Tires 
Lift Kit 
Marshmallow Safari 
Minute Lube 
Monster Truck 
Salt-Lake Special 
Take 10 
Take 5 
Tranny Trouble 
Unknown 21 - big hands flare 
Unknown 5.12 Large Lichen Corner 
Unknown long hands into wide corner 
Unnamed 5.10 (route 34) - R of tunnel 
Unnamed 5.10 - just after turning the corner 
Unnamed 5.10- w/ LF corner capped by roog 
Unnamed 5.11 (36) - RF corner through 2 roofs 
Unnamed 5.11 (38) - twin crack start 
Unnamed 5.11 R of Variety Pack 
Unnamed 5.11 w/ 2 bolt start 
Variety Pack 

4 x 4 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 5,220
Submitted By: J. Hickok on Jun 20, 2004
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4 x 4 on 4 x 4 wall.


When parking just before the cattle guard and approaching up the main trail, this route is visible as a big hands crack in a slot with a triangular roof just before a set of anchors. From the top of the trail navigate a 100 yards or so right (or north) to the base of the route.

The climb is straight forward plugging and chugging until the roof where the size changes to about 4 inches. After turning the roof (crux), the anchors are just above. Possible second pitch continues on, although I am not sure if it has been done or not. Looks like it goes.

I don't know what the guidebooks are calling the grade of this route these days. Difficulty when pulling the roof on this climb is subject to hand size (as always at Indian Creek), so you could find this to be 10+ or solid 11.


Approximate guess:
2 - #2 Camalots
1 - #3 Friend
4 - #3 Camalots
2 - #3.5 Camalots

Photos of 4 x 4 Slideshow Add Photo
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Derrick at the lip!
Derrick at the lip!
apirion eyeing the roof on 4x4
apirion eyeing the roof on 4x4
T.Blom working the 'easy' part on 4x4 (the start is a bit overhanging)
T.Blom working the 'easy' part on 4x4 (the start i...
lucky to have big hands, still sat a few times. Pretty burly for 5.10.
lucky to have big hands, still sat a few times. Pr...
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By Anonymous Coward
Jun 21, 2004

Sandbag alert! Sandbag alert! This is rattly fists through the roof... burly as hell unless you have big mits. When I was there several years ago, the plague at the base called it 5.11. I think the Marco I.C. guide has a grade disparity between the topo and description rating.

By Grant Bryans
From: buena vista colorado
May 11, 2007

for me it was rattly cups through a roof. fun, yet the 10 (as with most routes at the creek are) is realitive to your hand size, if the jams were more secure for me it would have for sure gone 10.

By bheller
From: SL UT
Nov 4, 2008

I'd agree this route is a sandbag at 10+. I have big hands and couldn't get but one fist jam under the roof, and then had to use very marginal forearm jams out the roof as it was just too small to take my fists. Felt desperate. Some lieback with better luck. 3.5 camalots essential for roof.

By Timmamok
From: Durango, CO
May 8, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

This route is 11-

By Alex Garhart
Oct 20, 2009
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c

No matter the grade this route is awesome. And no matter your hand size there is more than one way to skin this cat.

By snowhazed
From: Oakland, Ca
Oct 12, 2010
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

Name a 10 at the creek that goes full horizontal for a body length and requires cutting your feet at a lip- regardless of the jam size. Name an 11- out there that feels harder. I had perfect fists out the roof- but ratchety cups above. Hard for every hand size- and also a great great route.

By JMo
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 19, 2012
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c

This 10d rating for this route on mp has gotta go. Absurd. Of course it's a stellar route. But what egomaniac feels the need to call this 10?

By Jeff Scheuerell
Nov 10, 2012
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

Sweet pitch!

I never got a single fist jam. Hands to cups to big cups, but no fist. Also I wouldn't bring a 3.5 Camalot unless you don't have enough 3s. Be carefull not to get the 3.5 stuck.

I thought it was harder than 10+ but could see 10+ if one had much bigger hands