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4 Those About 2 Rock 
Arabesque 
Cannibal 
Jammin' With Jane 
Warrior Waitress (aka Caravans) 
Welcome to the Dark Side 

4 Those About 2 Rock 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type: Trad, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
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Page Views: 1,031
Submitted By: Alex Shainman on Sep 12, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

...We Salute You (ACDC)

A great route for this area! Kind of soft for the grade (11a in guidebook) but it is a must do!

Go up an easy corner with a vibrating spike and get good Yellow-Red Aliens. Next is a very unnecessary upward-driven angle piton that (IMO) should be removed. Better Green Alien(s) around the pin can be placed. Sweet underclings with lots good gear move you out right to where it eases and turns into a vertical flake. Go to an anchor that needs extra links on the hangers.




Location 

You can't miss this cool looking undercling feature!


Protection 

Doubles of Green to Red Aliens (one .5 BD Camalot may work better at the crux) and (one each) #.75 through #3 Camalots

2 quicklinks will straighten out the anchor.



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By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Apr 7, 2010

To this climber, 4 Those About 2 Rock is not a hair easier than 5.10d, but certainly not 5.11a. If you have only led a handful of 5.10a trad routes and saw this thing rated 5.10b/c in a guidebook, you might get lured in to a true epic of exhaustion. Perhaps it's not helpful to mince grades, but I thought this line fairly pumpy, with a section or two that required technical prowess. Definitely hard 5.10.

The easy 5th class top-out is a true victory finish. Awesome, awesome route. An absolute MUST DO at the crag.