All Locations > New York > Powerlinez > n. Perched Ramparts

Shadow Castle Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in 4. Shadow Castle

L › R R › L A › Z

	Barbican TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Cleft Bastion TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	East Bastion TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Keep, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
	Leaking Fissure TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Moat, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Portcullis TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	562 ft
GPS:	41.14529, -74.16477 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	4,790 total · 47/month
Shared By:	kenr on Dec 27, 2015 · Updates
Admins:	Morgan Patterson, SMarsh Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: As of November 2021, there are new parking arrangements. Please follow this guidance. Details

The current parking area is now limited parking, subject to the following guidelines:

No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.

The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.

Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.

Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.

Description

South-facing (but shaded) wall on the upper cliff a ways northeast from Tower Wall. Just right of the Albion sector and just left of the Devonshire slab. There is a little "guard tower" (the Cleft Bastion) at the top of the cliff above the corner at the left side of the wall; to its right usually a wet area in the left center of the wall; and another (higher) little "guard tower" (the Keep) at the top of the right half of the wall, just left from above the obvious Moat gully; then farther right another obvious gully is the approximate boundary between Shadow Castle sector and the Devonshire slab sector.

Top-Roping: To set up a top anchor, traverse right (East) under the base of the Devonshire slab, and continue past a steep loose gully and under the Jumble Hotel crag, almost to the base of the Puzzle Palace crag. Scramble up the steep left-trending gully (careful of loose sections) on the left side of Puzzle Palace, then horizontal Left (SouthWest) along the top of the cliff.

warning: The rock on and around this cliff has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Getting There

Because of difficult vegetation as of 2017, the easiest approach is to first go to the base of the Puzzle Palace crag, then walk about 165 feet left horizontally WSW under steep left-trending gully and Jumble Hotel crag, then under another steep gully and Devonshire slab, to the base of Shadow Castle.
How to get to Puzzle Palace: See the detailed instructions on the Perched Ramparts area page.

If planning to top-rope, it's likely easier to walk east from the top of the Tower Wall. Aim for around N41.1455 W74.1649 which will take you past Baldy and Albion areas to the top of The Keep + The Moat routes. Then rappel down and avoid the overgrown scrambles.