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4. Raindance
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, Sport, 115 ft (35 m) |
FA: | yes |
Page Views: | 774 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | Matt Lisenby on Mar 30, 2009 |
Admins: | Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
4. Raindance 5.11a** Start in the dark rock below a left arching dihedral about 45 left of route #3. Carefully climb up the dark rock (intermittent gear), heading for a bushy ledge 30 high and the start of the dihedral. Climb the dihedral using traditional gear, pulling the roof at a bolt on the right. Continue up the spicy slab(5.8) past a bolt and some optional gear. Finish on a superb fingercrack that ends at a ledge on the right of the summit pillar.
Protection
A light rack to #2 Camalot, with doubles on TCUs is recommended. TWO ROPES(or perhaps a 70 M) are needed to reach the ground from the fixed nuts at the ledge. Another option is to climb the very short, but loose finish (5.6 fists) and walk off to the right of the crag (or rappel from anchors shared by routes #1-3).
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